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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is
the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to
all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other
types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and
keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In
a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an
electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer.
Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover
or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front
corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on
the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the
defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked
with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety
thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you
have a energy efficient
model that has electronic controls then
you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary
by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it
is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that
needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that
will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I
recommend you contact a reliable technician..