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S20BRSB21 AS THIS HAS A DIGITAL TEMPERATURE SETTING DO YOU THINK I NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD, IS THIS WHERE THE DEFROST SETTINGS ARE MADE? I HAVE SEARCHED FOR THERMOSTATS, TIMERS ON PARTS WEBSITE BUT I CANNOT FIND ANY FOR THIS MODEL? NICKY

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The printed circuit board is a rather expensive item and I would check or have checked the defrost heaters and defrost thermostat first to find if the problem is there. If there is no problem in the heaters or thermostat then go to the next step.

The defrost heaters And defrost thermostat is located behind the rear wall in the freezer compartment. They can be checked with an OHM meter for continuity. The shelving and the rear wall must be removed to access these items.

Posted on May 31, 2008

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Why is my Whirlpool s20brsb21 fridge not staying cold ,the temperature seems to vary and food is going off


The most likely fault is the relay on the rear board located behind the back panel , take out the plastic housing that contains the printed circuit board and take the lid off then switch the fridge on and listen for the compressor starting if after 15 minutes it does not start tap the big orange relay with a the handle of a screwdriver if the compressor starts you need to change the relay and associated capacitors, if that is not possible just change the complete board.
there are loads of other possibilities but that is the most likley

Aug 01, 2014 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Tt18hpxlt defrost timer


there is no defrost timer in this model,it is called an A.D.C. adaptive defrost control and is located in the refrige compartment just above and behind the cold control setting inside this plastic case,remove this case from the top of the refrigerator compartment and you will see a small printed circuit board,this is the A.D.C.

May 12, 2012 | Estate Refrigerators

1 Answer

Jenn-Air not cooling. Repairman replaced 'defrost control board.' Still not cooling. Control to set temperature will not move from zero. Any suggestions appreciated.


Generally when a printed circuit board faults it often takes out the other boards too.
You may need to get the main PCboard replaced too

Apr 01, 2011 | Jenn-Air JFC2087HRP Side by Side...

1 Answer

I have power but both the fan and the compressor are not running. All the numbers that indicate the temperature setting are blinking. Is it a relay problem or a circuit board problem.


Your fridge could be in defrost mode. This only lasts fo a few minutes. If it does not start up after 30 min max your defrost timer may be bad. When your fridge kicks into defrost mode the timer turns on the defrost circuit which includes a heating element and a defrost limit switch and turns off the cooling circuit which includes the compressor and fans. The timer use to be located under the bottom of the fridge now its inside the fridge side usually under the top plastic shield or the back. If you locate the thermostate you can turn it manually with a flatblade screwdriver. good luck

Aug 16, 2010 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

2 Answers

Frig side not working on Maytag MZD2766GEW


freezer not defrosting. probably adaptive defrost board in fridge.
take panel off freezer (inside, back panel). if all frozen, can defrost with blow dryer. best to remove fridge control panel (inside, top of fidge). access adaptive defrost board, jump test to f1 (i think) next to test. this should initialize defrost mode. buy new board.

May 23, 2009 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Test to see if circuit board is okay


From Appliance Aid.com

WHY Force the Arctica to Defrost if it Don�t Want to? Don't bother using the self-diagnostics feature to force a defrost cycle. On some models � those with control knobs - which technically are not Arctica models (Arctica models have plastic liners with touch pads � Standard GE electronic models with metal liners have knobs) servicers would have to invest in parts to build a �test� control panel, complete with touch pads and digital displays, to achieve this (self-diagnostics) function. Instead, save both time and money by following this helpful Arctica Tip: If a frosted evaporator or a �frost block� is apparent, initiating a defrost cycle may not reveal anything helpful anyway. First, disconnect power and then simply check the resistance across the defrost heater and bimetal circuit at the main board located at the backside. The two associated wires at the main board are almost always BLUE and ORANGE. The heater/bimetal circuit should normally read around 30 ohms roughly. Next, check the evaporator thermister at the main board between thermister input terminals J1-4 (Blue/White) and J1-5 (Blue) to determine that its resistance is greater than 1.2k ohms but not more than 166.8k ohms depending on its ambient temperature. If thermister resistance falls within this range according to temperature (Approximately: 6k ohms at 70�F � 16.3k ohms at 32�F � 51k ohms at 0�F) and the heater/bimetal circuit is diagnosed as good, then replace the main board.

Apr 30, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Apr 17, 2009 | GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

2 Answers

GE side By Side GSS22JEMDWW


Maybe but there is also a thermister in the defrost system that might be bad. The thermister is a small, white, barrell shape and is as big around as a pencil, It has 2 wires going in it and is attached to the top of the coils in the freezer.

Jun 30, 2008 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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