Question about Air Tools & Compressors
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like you need a new check valve which should be somewhere between the compressor outlet piping,tubing,etc and the tank which prevents the air in tank to back feed to the compressor which would cause hard starting and could damage the motor easy way to check is when you shut off the compressor with some air in the tank if the check valve is bad it would continue to bleed air out out the unloader valve .the unloader valve on your unit is most likely part of the pressure switch when the unit shuts of it should only bleed down the pressure in the pump so it would make it easy to start when needed hope i didn't confuse you
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
The problem that you describe could be casued by several problems that you can check yourself. I usually begin by checking the in-tank check valve for leaking air back to the pump. Follow the air discharge hose to the tank and you will find the brass checkvalve. With about 80psi in the tank, unplug the unit from the wall and loosen the smaller fitting (or larger whichever is easier ) at the checkvalve and listen for air leak. If leaking replace with generic valve available at www.grainger.com. Just pay attention to pipe sizes. If no leaks at check valve, remove capacitors from the motor (mark the leads) and test with meter. Repair shops usually test for free if you do not have a meter that can test capacitors. The caps should test within 95% of rating printed on side. Replace with generic to save money just watch size so that they will fit under cover (also available at grainger). If no problems so far, remove the belt and check bearings on motor and compressor for noise (should be relative silent as your turn it by hand). Worn bearings on the motor will cause the motor to overheat. Worn bearings on compressor will just make noise but usually not cause your problem. If all good, then problem could be valves in pump leaking causing the pump to become very hot. This is a visual inspection by removing the head. Finally the electric motor uses sealed bearings and cannot be lubed, only replaced due to age. Good luck
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
Cold weather will freeze the water the compressor normally makes and this can prevent the switch diaphragm from releasing.... also drain the tank
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
SOURCE: Electric Motor running slow
Century / Magnetek motors are used on many compressors but usually is an upgrade to have the option to easily switch from 110 to 220. Dewalt, Rol Air, Jenny, Emglo and others are considered high end compressors and come with switch for selecting voltage. One still must change the cord if selecting 220v setting. One thing in common is that 115v motors are never more than 2-3 HP because the amp draw for anything over 2hp is likely higher than 20 amps and would trip most common outlet breakers. You noted that your motor sticker lists 6.5 hp at 15 amp 220v so it could not work with 110v because it would draw over 30 amps and just not be practical. Magnetek motors are very good quality and most always state on sticker 110/220v and show wiring diagram for proper connection. Your compressor was most likely built to be stationary and be hardwired into an outlet/switchbox with heavy duty wiring or special cord to run such a high hp motor. You made a great buy however, because the motor alone lists for several hundered dollars alone. You could replace the motor with a 110v but you would loose the fast performance / recovery of that 6.5 hp motor. Like replacing a v8 engine with a 4 cyl. but expect to pull same load, not likely. Good luck with your purchase, and post again if you have other question.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you, I was starting to think so too.Just don't have the knowledge to say "your right".At this time it'd be easier to change motors. Thank you again. J"
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