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My Hitachi 61SBX59B over the last few months has been acting funny like turning on the tv and no sound but was corrected by changing the channel. Then while that went on I also developed a type of banding, like if you watched CNN or Fox News and the bullets at the bottom of the screen would be pulled to one side or the other with little ghosting at those edges. Then it started at the top as well, most prevalent when tickers or bullets were on the screen both top and bottom. Also an all black screen has a shade of red not noticeable at any other time. Mind you it sounds bad but in general the color and picture are likable. I love the color on this set even after 9yrs any way today the unit died on me and when I went to try and power it up again nothing. I unplugged the unit waited a minute or two plugged it back in and the green lights lit on the PCB after a couple of seconds it powers off again. I don't know if all of these are separate issues or not but wanted to give an accurate portrayal.

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  • 17 more comments 
  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    Yes, please do my parents have the same tv with the same power problems and I would really like to come up with some kind of fix for them as well!

  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010
  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    http://futureshop.partsearch.com/Part/Hi...

    Try this if it doesn't work they are asking $135.00
    it also lists the board as an AP93R what does the R stand for (refurbished)



  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    so the power supply is on the control board not the power supply board. I have a service manual and I,m having problems with figuring out what exactly the power supply is. because the actual thing that I see is not on a separate board it's a transformer soldered on to the main board . If I,m seeing something wrong or i,m just not understanding where to look please help me!

  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    If it is the actual power supply and not the board, do the power supply boards come ready to swap out or do you have to solder everything and do you have to reset the digital convergence settings and other stuff after the swap out. Also was looking at a couple of other posts and saw one with a similar issue that SD Tech commented on and SD said something of a resistor and cap that might be bad on the power supply board something around c707 or something like that any thoughts.

  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    Tim, It's 3 A.M. I'm out-a-here I'll try back tomorrow!

  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    I was kinda curious about SD Tech's approach since the power supply board is no longer available if the board it's self might be able to be repaired.

  • imsureru Oct 11, 2010

    I actually have an ohms meter but never used it, nothing like a crash course to get the blood flowing!

  • imsureru Oct 12, 2010

    Thank's Tim for your help, If at all possible I'm going to try to fix the components on the board one piece at a time if I can find them. I'm not ready to close the case though but your help has been greatly appreciated.

  • imsureru Oct 19, 2010

    ATTENTION SD TECH,

    What is the best way to discharge the board before I can check parts?

  • imsureru Oct 19, 2010

    For the most part I know you are right. But let me clarify that the TV is a Rear Projection and not a flat panel. I have tried to get this issue resolved, I still hold out hope one day it will be. So I am very sorry for the confusion. I do agree that it might not be an easy fix, but I have read that most of the time it might be just a matter of a diode or a IC convergence chip or so on. another thing the TV has a certain amount of sentimental value and would mean a lot if we could try to fix it on the cheap. It absolutely wouldn't be worth it to replace a $400 power board or a $350 CRT. So I'm just trying to see what can be done.

    P.S I would never give you a bad rating because you stat the obvious, Thank You.


    Richard

  • imsureru Oct 19, 2010

    I also have a posting on Fixya that is the free one, and I received a response to it that pointed me in the direction that the IC chips or a zener diode this was the actual response. "

    Before you replace ICs check D957, it is a
    15volt Zener Diode. if it is Shorted Set will shut down.
    Regulator/power supply circuit . Google to Encompass Parts Distribution
    Type in your model # they have Free Service Manual that you can print
    out online,they also list Parts /Prices to this Model# 61SBX59B.
    I happen to have a service manual if there is any way to email it to you, I would be happy to do so. and all the parts are available as well. I also purchased a book that describes how to check some of the components including the Zener diode, but the book says nothing on how to properly discharge the board, hence the question. Another thing is I'm wondering how to properly work on the board without unsoldering the flyback transformer. How is it done in the field.
    I would very much like to attempt something!
    I'm also kinda eager to learn, that may be a bad combo,but necessity does breed invention.

  • imsureru Oct 19, 2010

    Yes Sir, I have a GB GMT-319 analog multimeter.

  • imsureru Oct 19, 2010

    I take it you mean no power to the unit correct! Do you have any thoughts on a total removal of the board, and what to do about the flyback transformer.

  • imsureru Oct 20, 2010

    I will try to send you the e-mail.

    I also found away to discharge the main Caps. I found out that each one of the 250v Caps had about 150v still in them after a week unplugged, I took a test light with a 100 watt bulb and discharged both Caps one at a time.
    Then I proceeded to check zener diode D957, this diode checked out fine. I don't know of a way to check the IC's. any ideas where to go from here.

  • imsureru Oct 20, 2010

    I'll have to try you again tomorrow or the next day thank you for all your help so far.

    P.S. I hope you received my e-mail. Thank you and goodnight!

  • imsureru Oct 31, 2010

    I,m still in the process of debating what to do, The local guy who fixes these has seen something like this before and pretty much knows what to replace on the board. I know this because he said this to my Parents who have the same model TV that I do and they have the same problem. I was kind of hoping that someone might be able to say try this, O' that didn't work lets try this. I'm sorry just venting a little thank you for all your help thus far!

  • imsureru Nov 01, 2010

    I had to flip the board over to check the D957 zener diode, so I'll get the board back in place and start to check the IC's as instructed. Could I ask for clarification on the position of the 2 diodes you are speaking of. Thank you very much!

  • imsureru Nov 01, 2010

    I could not locate the diodes you described, but here is some new info I re-hooked the wires back on the board and plugged it in and there are a few lights not lighting D946

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,340 Answers

This isn't going to be much of an answer and you probably will give me a bad rating but I,personally,would go out buy a new one if you are in a position to do so.It sounds like the image processing part of the circuit board at the least.Since it is a flat screen,if you can take it to a TV repair shop yourself,that saves you $50 minimum.If you want to self-repair you would most likely need a circuit board.It will likely be at least $150 and repair shops normally have a 20% parts price markup so now it's $180.Due to the age of the set and the current technological aspects compared to yours,it basically is like having a computer now with the Windows 98 days technology.It is also likely that the board you are looking for is no longer produced or available.Also,more than 1 economist from more than 1 media outlet have been reporting since last month that with the overstock of LCD's this year,you may find some really good deals with the fast approaching holiday season.That usually happens when a new technology comes out.It starts out expensive,after a few years prices start coming down,technology gets better,than after several years almost everyone has them so they do not even have enough common sense to know it but they keep producing the same numbers,but the demand goes way down.We just bought our first LCD this year.A 42" LG for about $650.So if you want,I will call around and look for a few parts for you,and find out if available or not and approximately how much.The makers themselves will not make that information available to the public on their websites.I have tried several different methods to no avail.You need to be a repair center with an account to access it.I can also tell you a few things to look for if you decide to replace it.I am not on this site strictly for money.I make maybe $25/week doing this.I just have been in a few industries and have simply had experiences in others to see how people are and do get ripped off just because they do not know enough.I am not the smartest guy in the world either.But I have a mainly electronic background and an aircraft mechanic license from the FAA.I just want to inform and educate people how to make the right decision for them and if I see red flags in certain things,like to spread the word.Also I would like to know if you are looking to self-repair this TV or not.It will be a big difference price-wise.So for now,don't say yes or no(I do not even know if that is possible as i cannot see the site from your end),just comment here and I will get an autolink to what you posted and will reply ASAP.Unless you comment,I have no way of knowing what you decided.I look forward to working with you on this one.
Greg

Posted on Oct 19, 2010

  • 7 more comments 
  • Greg McCarthy Oct 19, 2010

    Actually,that really isn't good news now.I distinctly remember researching for parts for 1 rear projection TV and they were not available due also to the age and demand for them.However,there is still hope.I do not remember the brand and everyone is different.Also,it easily could be the convergence chip but it may or may not have affected other parts such as diodes caps etc. One quick check trick I learned from repair usually will tell you if a chip is bad.Open up the TV and get to the circuit board.Make sure you have a good open space around the board if possible,unnecessary to go removing things which are electronic though.It's probably on wheels,just make sure there is space around you too just if you have to move fast,not likely electrocuted,and don't break anything.You should have someone else present just in case something happens.There shouldn't be any problems but messing around with a live board,I am cautious.If something happens and you get jolted you want someone around to pull the breaker NOT pull the cord out.You also seem to have electronic knowledge of some sort.This becomes a little tough to describe.Turn on the TV.Check all the chips doing this.If you can locate the convergence chip start there.It most likely will have the most connections of any chip.Put a finger just above the chip as close as possible without touching it.If it isn't too hot quickly tap it,but gently,and pull your finger off.If it is not too hot still,hold your finger on it slightly longer.Little by little until you can touch the chip a few seconds and is not too hot.Move on to the next one.If you get one where it is real hot immediately when touching quickly or for a second of touching,it's probably bad.I have burned myself doing this.Nothing serious,just a sore finger for a couple days.Strange as it may sound,this is much quicker and easier than using a meter as the schematic is not present right now and it is also just plain accurate.I have been jolted by live caps several times,just a little tingle,the hot chip was multiple times more annoying.Also,the board is not likely to jolt you but there is a live input wire which as careful as anyone may be,it is too much to be messing with alone.Also,if the chip is bad,the board may not be available,but the part may be.Whether new or off a used TV.Nowadays they crush the TV's all the time but I think they save some of the electronics.So since there is sentimental value to your TV,somehow some way this part may be gotten to some where.Also,rear projections do not have CRT's.CRT is cathode ray tube which is the big glass vacuumed tube in the older TV's.Diodes are primarily on input circuits or some where that you do not want reverse polarity.Kind of like holding a wrench on your car battery terminals.Not knowing the exact way the rear projection is supposed to work,I would say that with the green light staying on beyond even part of a second should mean at least your power input section should be good.Also,I am not sure how this site works,but on my initial response I am unable to see anything previously written between you and another tech.After your or anyone other's first reply,I am able to see only your side and can kind of interpret what may have been suggested to you.They do not let 1 tech see another tech's answers which I think is good.As far as discharging the board before checking parts,it is not difficult but about all you would be able to do is ohm checks.It would require unsoldering one side of the resistor to isolate it,reading it,interpreting it's value being good or not by the band colors on it,and re-soldering.When a resistor is cold,it's value is actually about 20% lower than it would be at operating temperature.That alone makes it too tedious and somewhat unreliable to try.Also a cap does not fully discharge even when doing it properly.Nature of the beast.I am curious as to what you found on those links up there.A board?I do not want to click it because I may lose this message.For too many years I have had to do written reports and log books.Only 2 fingers to type with.I took typing but it was about 27 years ago.Greg

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 19, 2010

    Discharging the board shoudn't be an issue because of the diode location with relationship to the circuit and what it does.You do need an ohmeter.Do you have one or have access?I bought one from a pawn store 20 years ago.It came with extra fuses and I have yet to use one of them.You have to know the appropriate,settings,limitations,and a whole bunch of other things,otherwise you will blow a fuse if power realted,or ohm realted with a charged circuit but still off.Your best bet for learning electricity would be to check out a basic electricity and electronics book from the library or Ipad or whatever.I started with a teach yourself and do it course in the military,completed basically a 2 semester course in about 60-65 hours.6 hours/day 5 days/week in military training(less than 11 days).Whatever you do,take notes for easy,quick future reference.Let me know about the meter.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 19, 2010

    Pick maybe the next highest setting for ohms.Probe on both ends on the diode.Take reading.Switch probes,take another reading.It should read infinity one way,and a fairly high resistance the other way.Guess you could use max ohm setting,it should register something if good.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 19, 2010

    No power is correct.The only 2 diodes you can do ohms on without any disconnect are those 2 because they are on the input.One side has nothing resistance-wise on one side and the other side is the rest of the circuitry.It is naturally isolated.Any other diodes on the board has resistance on both sides of it so you have to undo one side to isolate them.You have to isolate it because the rest of the circuitry affects the reading.AC power actually takes about a 150V signal to produce a constant 115V.You probably have seen the symbol,perhaps in high school.It is,yes,the old sine wave.It goes from 0 to 150V and back down to zero on the positive half of the signal then does the same through the negative half.The 2 diodes are one for each half (- and ).You need the 150V peak to achieve a constant 115V signal because of the fluctuation of the signal.
    It is called rms(root mean square) voltage.Basically the average of the complete signal.DC is a straight line signal and constant.gmccarthy 86 hotmail In subj please write something related to this.I have high filters cause I hate junk mail...who doesn't.The transformer is something I will need some info on.Sorry it took so long.I am not from Mass but upstate NY wayyy up.My Bruins are on tonight and I live in FL so it is a rareity.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 20, 2010

    The IC's i mentioned above.They are commonly known as chips also.Check them that way t see if you find anything as I suggested and let me know.IC= integrated circuits.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 20, 2010

    It'smy second post.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 20, 2010

    No I did not get the e mail.I think policy is not to do it,but I do occassionally so i break it up.The name and # have no space though if that is what you tried.

  • Greg McCarthy Oct 31, 2010

    Yes,I meant unplugged only.There are 2 diodes on the input power plug,not just 1.Above,on my longest post,there is a quick way to check the IC's which is surprisingly accurate.Did you try it yet?If the board can be found,it should have the transformer attached if it is soldered to the board.Leaving a unit unplugged will in no way discharge caps.That is how they are built.Only discharge when the requirements are met to allow it.The transformer should at least get warm after 5-10 minutes of plug in and running just to have a shot at it being good.

  • Greg McCarthy Nov 01, 2010

    There should be 2 diodes connected right near where the cord comes in from the wall outlet.1 diode converts the positive half of the AC wave,the other converts the negative half.It should be very closely located to the one you already read.

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  • Master
  • 2,777 Answers

Wow it sounds like multiple problems with this unit. The current main problem is that the power supply has failed, that is why it will not power on. It could have been irregular power causing it to do the strange things it was doing before. If you really want to save this TV it will at least need a new power supply, hopefully not much more... On a TV of that age it may be difficult to even locate parts, but I can try, let me know if you want to try and replace the power supply by yourself and I will look around.

Thanks
Tim

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

  • 5 more comments 
  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    Not having a whole lot of luck here, many places list the power supply, but everyone has it discontinued or out of stock with no way to back order it. It is part # X480217 if you want to search yourself as well. I would also recommend you try a local TV repair place to see if they can somehow order the part for you...

    I am continuing to look but wanted to update you. It is very difficult to find parts for TVs of this age.

    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    That link takes me to a blank page. As long as it is under $400 it is probably about correct, these older power supplies are very expensive, and they are extremely hard to find so I'd grab whatever you can.

    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    That's definitely it and a killer deal at that. Not sure what the R is for, the page indicates it's new (I deal with partstore.com all the time, the URL - link is how you can tell.. it ends in New.asp....

    Anyway I'd definitely snap that one while you can, or two of them I suppose..

    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    It is part of the main board for sure, not an easy repair on an older model like this. It could be the power board as well, but almost certainly it's the actual power supply. However the power board is much easier to replace. You may want to get a power board from partstore.com (if you can find one) and replace that first. The nice thing about doing that is, if it doesn't solve the problem, which it may very well do, just pull the board back out and send it back to partstore.com for a full refund, they will refund you on anything up to 30 days. Then you will know for certain it is the power supply. This is actually exactly how we'd do it in the shop, since soldering something is obviously much more difficult.

    Also, very the part #'s from the service manual, it's possible that one we are looking at there from partstore.com is really the power board, they label them vice versa sometimes. Forgot this older unit has an actual power board and power supply...

    Thanks
    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    Test, just want to see if you rejected my solution?

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    I guess maybe not, which is good, but it looks like I may be out of the question now, please reply back to me and let me know if you are working with someone else.

    Thanks
    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Oct 11, 2010

    It is very possible, do you know how to test the individual components?

    Thanks
    Tim

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