My faucet connection came off and the ball bearings that keep it attached all fell down the drain.. How (where) do i replace those? does anyone know what size i need?

The body of the faucet is only held down by the 1-3 assembly screws (depending if you have a 1-hole, 2-hole, or 3-hole faucet) attached from the underside of the counter. If the whole thing keeps spinning (top and from underneath), you'll need more torque to undo the assembly screw. If you can have a helper holding on to the faucet while the other person applies more torque from underneath that will be helpful.

If you have no one available, you can try to jam something long into the drain which can prop up beside the faucet to keep it from spinning around while you attempt to unscrew it. Or a bit more dangerous, jam an item into the water outlet end. The something must be long enough to be caught in the bowl to keep the faucet from spinning. This isn't the preferred method of the two as most faucets are made from brass or copper which are easily crack-able or bendable metals.

I used a wooden rod in the drain and attached to the faucet end with rope to keep it from slipping. Using a plumbers wrench turn slowly and it should come off. The wooden rod only slipped once so I had to retie it in a better position. A buddy of mine tried the 2nd method where he jammed a thin wrench into the water outlet end of the faucet. Dummy not only cracked the faucet making it useless, he cracked the sink bowl lol...

You can also try an adjustable oil filter wrench to be attached to the faucet on the top side to help keep it from spinning by catching the wall for bracing.

the ball bearing will be a non return valve for the accelerator pump. When the pump is moved to suck in fuel from the bowl it lifts of the seat and when the pump is pressed down the force of the fuel closes it off and the fuel is squirted in to the manifold.

Ball bearings or ball joints? Ball joints do go bad about that milage on your truck.

If it fell out then it can't do it's job which is to regulate the pressure within the pump and is "shot."

If it fell out then it can't do it's job which is to regulate the pressure within the pump and is "shot."

Sounds like a problem with the spring pressure on the ball or the ball itself. Try removing the handle from the stem. Usually a phillips screw underneath a snap on button in the center of the handle. Remove the screw and wiggle the handle off the stem. There should be a threaded collar on the top of the faucet body which exerts pressure downwards on the ball retainer and the ball itself. Try tightening this collar up "clockwise" a little bit and see if that stiffens the stem up to the point that the handle will stay in position. If this fails install a new rebuild kit. (ball, seats, o rings, and springs). It's helpful to know the faucet manufacturer before you go to the hardware store. Also helpful to have the old parts in hand to match up to the new kit. Note that you may have leftover parts from the kit as they often cover more than one model. You may find exploded parts diagrams on the manufacturers website to assist in disassembly. For example:

http://www.deltafaucet.com/customersupport/troubleshoot/bath-single-handle.html

Be sure to turn both hot and cold water supplies off before disassembly. Also, throw a towel or rag in the bottom of the sink to block the drain opening to prevent losing small parts down the drain. Generally, all you need in the way of tools is a phillips screwdriver and a pair of chanellock pliers. Another rag can be handy for protecting shiny finishes from the teeth on the pliers. If by chance you still have proof and place of original purchase, most modern faucets carry a life time warranty and will be replaced by the manufacturer or at least provide replacement parts free of charge. Though, generally, I find it far easier to replace parts rather than the whole faucet.

Hello, This is common with Asko after a period of use, the heat makes the plastic pieces brittle over time or amount of use. If you still have the ball bearings good, ( 4 per side ) keep them and you'll only need to replace the gray plastic pieces known as the guide rail "ball holders". If you don't have all the ball bearings, get yourself a telescopic magnet and make sure one or more hasn't found it's way into the wash or drain pump as they have a tendency to do so. This obviously can and will cause serious problems because the wash & drain impellers are plastic...steel vs. plastic = not good. The Asko part number for the holder is 8058638 and should come as individuals so order 2, one for each side. The ball bearings are # 8057977 and as mentioned, require 4 on each rail/side. As for where ? I use Amre Supply, so you could check out their on-line availability at amresupply.com if you'd like. Hope that helps solve your problem. Thank you for coming to "fixya" for your solution. Let me know if I can assist you further and good luck. macmarkus :)

you have an 0-ring under the neck that has gone bad,you can replace this yourself if not a plumber can.

if the balls fell out you need a new head,sorry.

You only need to put back on the steel clamp that fits over the assembly which holds down the shield, the spring, and keeps the 4 ball bearings in place. The ball bearings may be tricky though as they tend to fall out when your putting the assembly back together.