Question about Kenmore 67082 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
bad thermal fuse "located behind the lower access panel and then behind the vent discharge line , ck therefor a bad thermal fuse.
Posted on Mar 23, 2008
Two different issues to address. First let's take care of your moisture sensors. If your lint screen is on the top of the washer, look at the back panel on the inside of the drum. If your lint screen is under the door, put you head in the drum and look straight back towards where the lint filter sits. Which ever style you have, you should see 2 silver bars inside. These are you moisture sensors. They work on the principle that when something wet brushes across them, it completes a circuit and tells the unit to keep running. Overtime, they can develop a build up on them and moisture cannot get to the sensors. Therefore the dryer "thinks" the clothes are dry and turns itself off. The easiest way to clean them is either using the "rough" side of a double sided sponge or for slightly worse/ stubborn build up you can use a fine grit sand paper. Rub either of these back and forth across your sensors to clean them up.
Now the second thing I wanted to check on was you said that you stopped using the auto sensing feature and then later you said sometimes it can take quite a few hours to dry a load. Now if you have stopped using the auto sensing AND it is still taking quite a few hours, then read on, otherwise you should be all set. However if you are still having hours of drying time on your timed dry cyles as well, then read on. From the dryer side, using a vaccume cleaner attachment (availible at most appliance parts stores) to clean out under your lint screen can help. Also check the vent between the wall and rear of the dryer. Is it bent or kinked? Remove it and clean it out as well once it is straightened. Lastly, you could have a restriction in the house portion of your vent. Again appliance parts stores generally sell a cleaning kit for the house portion or there are companies that specialize in dryer vent cleaning as well.
Sorry if you didn't need the last portion, but I just wanted to make sure we covered all of the problems you were having. Drop me a note back if you need anything else.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
I think your vent has lint in the line between the wall and the outside of your house not allowing the moisture to get out
1 when the dryer is running go outside and observe the vent to see if hot air is coming out
2 Turn dryer off, disconnect electric from wall
3 pull dryer out from wall
4 take a nut driver or screw and remove the clamp that attaches the flex vent pipe to the wall
4 Also remove the flex pipe from the dryer
5 Inspect inside vent connection inside dryer for any trapped lint
6 inspect inside flex line for any lint
7 Look inside wall vent for lint you can also reach in with your hand to feel for lint
8 If you have a leaf blower or can borrow one(electric is best) from your neighbor put the snout of the blower into the vent going into the wall seal the area between the snout and the vent pipe at the wall ( i use duct tape you can use wash clothes rags etc
9 start blower and blow any lint in the line out through outside THIS WILL CLEAR THE LINT
10 Reattach the flex to the wall vent and dryer , plug in. run a load and you should be back in business
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer won't stay on.
tThe wiring diagram for your dryer is shown in the first image below. A
thermal fuse is normally in the circuit to the igniter on many gas
dryers. I recommend checking this fuse. On dryer model 11073032102, you
can access this fuse by _unplugging the dryer, shutting off the gas
supply,_ and removing the bottom front service panel as shown in the
second image below. On some Kenmore dryers, you have to remove the back
panel to access the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is located on the
blower housing . The third image shows the location
and replacement procedure. To test the thermal fuse, remove at least
one wire (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance
across the leads of the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure
near zero ohms (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance (open),
then the thermal fuse is blown and will need to be replaced.NOTE: If
the thermal fuse is blown, check the venting for your dryer. Restricted
exhaust venting can cause the thermal fuse to blow.
thank You Huuum
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Posted on Jan 23, 2009
It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.
Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.
Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.
Posted on May 28, 2009
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