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I purchasing this flash from b & h and want to know if it will sync with my studio lights slave function so both flashes will be fired at the same time? I figure I'll have to use the camera in manual mode and set the shutter on my Sony A900 to 1/200 of a second.

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Presuming you bought a shoe-mount flash for your Sony A900 and set the camera and flash to manual so there's no pre-flash to prematurely trigger your strobes, and presuming your studio lights have built-in optical slaves, you should be all set.

Henry Posner
B&H Photo-Video

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

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1 Answer

Can I turn off the automatic slave flash?


plug a cord into the back and do not connect that cord to anything. That with deactivate the slave

Oct 20, 2012 | Promaster Systempro 160a Studio Flash

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Red eyes appear in all my photos how do I eliminate that? Also if I am taking photos outdoors on a snowy day with not much sunlight how can I get good photos?


Red eye is cause by the internal flash being mounted to close to the lens center axes and is a common problem with most all cameras built this way. Many manufactures have attempted to use "red eye" reduction which fires a pre-flash to close the subjects retina before the actual flash for exposure. Does it work in my opinion no it just cause the subject to think "Oh there's the flash the picture has been taken" and they move while the actual pictures is being made. Yet others tried to send a high intensity light in the subjects direction and that wasn't much better. To get around the red eye with a point and shoot camera you need to get the flash away from the camera. It's called "Off Camera" for your camera it would require an optional digital flash that will sync with the camera flash shutter speed mounted to a bracket that holds the flash above the camera at least 4 inches. However in the case of a pocket camera such as what you have, there now comes the problem of how to trigger the optional off camera flash. This can be done but requires a little non intrusive hacking and a piece of aluminum foil. All this extra gear has now pretty much destroyed the concept of a pocket point and shooter but you asked how to eliminate it as well. The U bracket and flash can be obtained through camera accessory manufactures another item you will need is a photo cell slave mounted on the flash which is mounted to the U bracket. T tripper the flash a small piece of reflective foil is taped in front of the flash angling the reflected light towards the photo cell slave. The slave "sees" the flash from the camera and triggers the optional flash. There are no wires involved so in fact this second flash could be mounted on a tripod to the side of the subject just as long as the camera flash is directed toward it. Once you get one optional flash to fire it is possible to connect multiple flash units using slave cells and create a studio lighting effect. You have now taken a point and shoot camera and turned it into a studio camera cool huh? Okay to address your second problem I feel as if I have to tell you what is happening before i explain what to do. Due to the mass amount of snow and possible overcast conditions you camera built in light meter "sees" this as a lot of light and closed down the aperture and or increases shutter speed, which in fact will under expose the scene. To work around this problem you need to switch you camera off any type of auto exposure zone and go to a manual setting. Look at the cameras light meter reading and purposely over expose it in most cases by two stops of light. I know this most likely all appears to complicated BUT, it's not beyond the capacity of your camera.

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Can I use it wirelessly with a canon EOS 40D


Yes you can but it won't TTL and you will need to fire it from or with a slave/light cell. This will make your system more like a studio set up. You will need to increase/decrease the light intensity using different modifiers for special effects. My portable/location set up uses 2 Vivitar 283's, a Canon 533G, Nikon SB 15 and a Canon 420 EX all fired from little flash slaves. here is an e-Bay reference link

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Flash-Slave-Trigger-Hot-Shoe-Sync-Adapter-Sensor-US-/110405132832?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19b4a8a220

Hope this was a help

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Can I use this unit with the Nikon SB-28 flash??


If it's a slave flash then it's fine as it has no physical connection to your camera. It simply fires when it senses the flash firing from your SB-28.

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The flash is not in sync with my nikon d40 anymore. It fires first. Pictures come out dark. The camera itself takes great flash pictures


It sounds like you're trying to use the SB-600 off camera, as a slave flash. While the SB-600 does indeed have slave capability, the D40 does not have the ability to function as a commander. Thus, the SB-600 is being triggered by the D40's pre-flash.

As stated above, the D40 does not function in commander mode. You can mount an SB-800 or SB-900 flash unit, which will function as a commander as well as a flash. Or you can mount an SU-800 commander unit.

Alternatively, you can switch the D40 to manual flash mode so as to eliminiate the preflash. However, you will then have to calculate the proper exposure yourself.

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Trigger a Speedlite 430EX II with a studio flash


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Nov 03, 2009 | Canon Speedlite 430EX TTL Flash

1 Answer

Sync Nikon SB-800 speedlight with studio lights


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1 Answer

I can't figure out how to use my SB800 off camera with the D80 in command mode.


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Synv Flash to camera with no hotshoe


Buy a small slave unit that attatches to the flash bottom.  Use the pop up flash on your camera set to the lowest power.  The slave unit will detect your cameras flash and fire the flash with the slave unit at the same time.  I am doing this with this same flash myself with fairly nice results.

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I had that same problem with the SB600 and the SB 800. Solutions; get a new one. After about a year of usage the sb600 started giving me that problem. It flashes but it does not sync. It still works as a remote unit, but not mounted on the camera. The SB800 just went to a coma last weekend. No sync at all, not even as remote unit, no strobe function, just a bright flash, when triggering the test button with new fresh batteries, it flashes at max power once and takes around 7 seconds to recycle. No multiple flashes at all. I had to buy a new one.

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