Question about Fisher and Paykel Dryers

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Dryer light burned out and broke off base of blub, had friend pull out the base with pliers and shorted the light socket without unpluging the machine! dryer will not turn-on or operate! what should i do with the dryer> Fisher & Paykel clothes dryer: Model>DEO5

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  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 10, 2010

    breaker did trip! and i reset the breaker, still not working

  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 11, 2010

    If I replace the bulb will it make a full circuit. I'm thinking that it might be more serious! I've been looking over the wire diagram and it's tied into the door switch, and there is a PC board that runs the machine. I'm looking to find a shorted board or wire fused together. It's also tied into the main motor and the start switch! Can you help me narrow my search? Can I make a simple repair, or am I looking at a costly service?

  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 11, 2010

    http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j353...

  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 11, 2010

    There is power going to the dryer! Dryer doent turn on at all, no lights! There's power.

  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 12, 2010

    I'm getting 240volts, 120 apiece for two breakers, power is getting to the dryer!

  • Kelly Lowrance Oct 14, 2010

    So I replaced the bulb and the drum lights up but the dryer still doesn't run. Have you been able to look at the wire diagram? Should I test the motor swich?

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  • 1,554 Answers

The first thing to check the is the circuit breaker for the dryer. It must have tripped due to the short circuit and needs to be reset.

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

  • 5 more comments 
  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 11, 2010

    Verify if the drum light turns on when the door is opened.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 11, 2010

    The bulb is not an essential part of the circuit. It's sole purpose is get the inside of the drum illuminated when the door is opened. With or without the bulb, the dryer will work if no other problem is present. Replacing the bulb will not make the problem more serious but will help determine if power is really getting into the dryer. Please post a photo or screen shot of the electrical diagram for me to analyze and determine where might the problem is. You can post the photo here or other photo sharing sites for a higher resolution.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 11, 2010

    Verify if there's power getting into the dryer. Check the voltages directly at the terminal block where the power cord connects to.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 11, 2010

    There's power going to the dryer but it is not getting into it as indicated by the drum light not turning on. It is likely that the power plug is fused or the door switch is damaged during the short circuit. Check the continuity of the power and/or access the door switch and join together the wires connected to it. If joining the wires together makes the drum light turn on and/or the dryer work then the door switch is indeed damaged, replace it.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 12, 2010

    Check voltages directly at the terminal block where the power cord connects into the dryer. The drum light should turn on when the door is opened if power is indeed getting into the dryer.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 12, 2010

    There's power going to the dryer but it is not getting into it as indicated by the drum light not turning on. It is likely that the power plug is fused or the door switch is damaged during the short circuit. Check the continuity of the power and/or access the door switch and join together the wires connected to it. If joining the wires together makes the drum light turn on and/or the dryer work then the door switch is indeed damaged, replace it.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 14, 2010

    Yes, I saw the diagram that's why I advised yo to replace the bulb.

    Now that power is confirmed getting into the dryer, the next thing to verify is the timer motor. You should hear the motor run if it's running. A faint buzz coming from the timer assembly indicates the timer motor is running. If not, then it must be damaged. If yes, then check the continuity/resistance of the motor windings, the motor overload protector is likely blown. An open continuity/resistance reading tells you if that is the case.

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You could heat it up (hair dryer, maybe?) then use needle nose pliers. Be careful if heating so you don't burn anything.

You may be able to put the tips of needle nose pliers inside the broken bulb's socket, gently but firmly force the pliers jaws apart and then rotate the pliers to loosen it.

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I like to put a little WD-40 or rust buster on the threads of the new bulb, too. Grease, Vaseline, cooking oil, or anything like that will work. Just a tiny bit.

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You could heat it up (hair dryer, maybe?) then use needle nose pliers. Be careful if heating so you don't burn anything.

You may be able to put the tips of needle nose pliers inside the broken bulb's socket, gently but firmly force the pliers jaws apart and then rotate the pliers to loosen it.

Another cool trick is to put a big glob of hot glue on the end of a stick or dowel, then shove it into the broken base and let it cool about 5 minutes, then turn the stick.

Before I install a new bulb, I like to put a little WD-40 or rust buster on the threads of the new bulb, too. Grease, Vaseline, cooking oil, or anything like that will work. Just a thin coat.

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You could heat it up (hair dryer, maybe?) then use needle nose pliers. Be careful if heating so you don't burn anything.

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Another cool trick is to put a big glob of hot glue on the end of a stick or dowel, then shove it into the broken base and let it cool about 5 minutes, then turn the stick.

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This is pretty common and can be a pain. It's tacked in place with hot glue, and sometimes there may have been enough moisture to corrode and seize up.

You could heat it up (hair dryer, maybe?) then use needle nose pliers. Be careful if heating so you don't burn anything.

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