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Re: Dryer turns off within 10mins of starting. Thinking...
Try cleaning the air passages, exit hose, and exit vent of lint collections. Wash the lint filter in hot water and detergent to remove fabric softener deposits that block air flow. Hope this helps!
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Check for clogging or excess debris in exhaust area of dryer, remove any debris with vacuum. Locate thermal cut out switch (s). Check resistances if extremely high or infinity replace switch. Switches should be on exhaust chamber leading to hose.
It may be the drive belt from the motor to the drum. If the dryer top flips up, you can see if the belt is intact, or is there a bottom panel that is removable? In any case the belt needs to be inspected. With that said, the 'strange odor' may very well be the motor. The motor / belt needs to be visually inspected. If anything is opened for inspection, be mindful of live wires and contacts.
There may be a thermal protector placed internally within the motor or motor-compressor to protect the motor and motor winding's components from dangerous overheating that can cause motor failure.
This overheating generally occurs when the motor is overloaded, a bearing seizes up, something locked the motor shaft from turning, or the motor simply fails to start properly. A failure to start may be caused by faulty start winding's in a motor.
The thermal protector consists of one or more heat-sensing elements integral with the motor or motor-compressor and an external control device. The thermal protection is in place to turn the motor off when excessive heat is generated within the motor circuitry and keep it from burning up the motor.
These thermal protectors are reset when the motor cools to a safe operating temperature. There is usually a visible red button located on the wiring side of the motor, opposite of the motor shaft, but not always. In some cases, these buttons are reset manually.
This usually caused by a blown thermal fuse on the blower housing located behind the rear access panel. This
thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and if it blows, power
to the motor is terminated and the motor cannot run. No dryer function
works when the motor cannot run.
Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then remove the rear access panel. Locate the thermal fuse then bypass it for troubleshooting purposes.
Bypass
the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and joining it
together. Insulate properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal
fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced if the dryer starts. Do
not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.
Clean the lint filter and make sure the vent system is not restricted then replace the thermal fuse including the cycling thermostat (thermistor for other models) as a standard operating procedure and preventive measure. The thermal fuse usually cuts out due to a failed cycling thermostat(thermistor for other models).
This
problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the
blower housing. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and
the motor activates a centrifugal switch for the heating element when it
runs. These setup makes the dryer fail to start and the heating element
not to turn on if the thermal fuse is blown. The dryer seems to no work
at all. Verify the condition of the thermal fuse by bypassing it and starting the dryer.
Disconnect power then access and bypass the
thermal fuse on the blower housing. The blower housing is located on the
rear left bottom of the dryer cabinet. Remove the rear panel to access
the blower housing and so the thermal fuse.
Bypass
the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and connecting them
together. Insulate them properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal
fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced along with the cycling thermostat if the dryer starts. Do
not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.
The thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are part numbers 3392519 and 3387134, respectively.
Yes, this model has a thermal cut out and you are correct in thinking that this is the reason why the dryer cuts out and will not re-start for a while.
However, although it's possible that the thermal cut out is faulty, the more likely and common cause is a failed thermostat. If the thermostat fails in the closed (on) position, it means that there is constant power to the heating element. This will cause the dryer to overheat and the thermal cut out will trip to prevent damage to the dryer. A correctly functioning thermostat opens and closes to switch power to the heating element on and off to keep the dryer at a roughly constant temperature.
You are absolutely correct that the motor is the problem and needs to be replaced. The motor is overheating and its thermal overload protector trips off causing the dryer to shut down. Thermal overload protector resets and allows the motor to run again only when it has cooled down. It is the reason why the dryer is not turning on immediately after it shuts off. Replacing the motor will definitely solve the problem.
Using a multi-meter, check to be sure that you have 220 volts at the back of the dryer. If you do, unplug the dryer, take the back off and ohm out the t-stats, thermal cut-outs and element.If you can't pinpoint it to one of these then it will be in the controls or maybe the motor start switch.
You could have a couple of things going on that may cause your symptoms. First of all, unplug the dryer. If you can access the inside of the dryer check to see if the dryer belt is broken. On some dryer models if the dryer belt breaks a "broken belt relay" on the idler pulley near the motor will trip causing the motor to shut down. This is to prevent a broken belt from becoming wrapped around the motor shaft. Another possibility is a blown thermal fuse or thermal cut-out. Some dryer models have a thermal fuse mounted on the exhaust vent housing and is white in color. This should read a short. There should be a thermal cut-out mounted on the heating element housing as well. There will be a hi-limit thermostat mounted near it. The thermostat will have a resistance reading (can't remember exactly what it is), and the thermal cut-out should read a short. If the thermal c/o is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat as well.
Now if you have a thermal fuse or thermal cut-out problem, they generally blow for a reason. Check your dryer ducting for proper air flow and make sure its not clogged full of lint. Normally, a thermal problem is associated with your dryer overheating. Good luck and let me know if this helps.
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