Here is the link for the service manual with a picture of the drivebelt. http://www.sportsbil.com/tandberg/6000x-servicemanual.PDF Go to the parent directory to find lots of other info for this and other Tandberg equipment.
In terms of "gunk" on tapes, there is much on the web about baking
tapes to dry out the hydrophyllic binder, which has weakened and let go
of the oxide because it took on moisture from the air. The drying
process is easily done with a food dryer. Reactivating the binder
temporarily reduces oxide shed and gunking up the heads and tape path,
long enough to transfer old recordings to a more stable medium. Most of
these problems were with tapes from the 80s. Many original master tapes
have been baked before transfer with great sucess. Most of the earlier
tapes from 50s through 70s (not not all) didn't suffer from oxide shed.
Search for "tape baking" for more info. Good luck.
Hi, I have a 6000x and gone tru several belts, solution: just go to local O-ring sales outlet and purchase either O-ring right size or 1.5 meter of linear O-ring and superglue the perfectly square cut ends together, believe me it works.
The belt runs from under the left reel assembly (you'll se the V groove) to the right hand one and makes a cross over the drive pulley/wheel, the left hand belt goes on the top pulley and then onwards to the RH reel assembly and back tru the lower small pulley ending on the LH reel assembly.
It sounds more complicated than it is.
Anyway this works for, I tried to use two shorter belts one from each side to the drive pulleys but have not had any good outcomes with this approach. Good luck.
ps. anyone have good tips about cleaning gunk of 35 year old r2r tapes, quality of sound pretty good but gunk keeps clogging up the heads.
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No it is the same motor for both functions. Just check does the record/play switch operate or move when you operate the record function? I have a hunch that is the problem it may also be that the switch contacts are dirty or worn.Try to play a recording you made on another machine if it does sound and play on the other machine then the problem can only be this switch. Some more upstairs decks do have separate amplifiers for play and record .Nakamichi. Studer Revox Tandberg Uher and the such comes to mind These are those machines offering "Off tape" recording monitor. Then it will sport three heads and not only two I hope this gives clues where to start looking for problems
It might not be a type that is meant to be fixed by that method. These type of pinch rollers are often held in place by horseshoe clips. Once that is removed the Roller assembly will often drop out. However to get the worn roller out, might require it being bendered out of shape to remove the wheel.
The speed of the wheels is indeed controlled by the processor. But the only way to properly diagnose that is to have it in front of you. Since i don't have it all i can do is guess: the speed is determined by the comparison of the frequencies given by a local oscillator and a sensor on the wheels; in your case the local oscillator is out of tune ( the frequency is off) because the components have aged and their value has shifted. To fix it you must retune it.
You will find the repair manual here http://www.hifiengine.com/manuals/tandberg/td-20-a.shtml
The old Tandberg's are good reel to reel recorders. Unfortunately, that joystick drive mechanism is very complex under the hood. It pushes different levers and such to apply the right combination for whatever mode you select. If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, try sliding the deck out of its case. Move the joystick to see what's being pushed where. That may show you something slipped out or broken. If not, you may have to power it up and watch the difference between play and fast forward. Both should make the takeup spool (right side) rotate CCW. You may be able to see the difference and move or tighten something up. If its not that obvious or you are not so inclined, you may have to search out a person to repair it who knows the Tandberg. They are somewhat unusual beasts (the deck not the techs) so you need someone who knows that joystick mechanism - Tandberg used it a lot but they were about the only one.
Resistors are good at causing distortion, you might spot one that has burned or broken. If the distortion is in both channels, which by what you say it is, then you might be looking for something common to both channels. Perhaps an IC.
Go to a consumer electronics repair shop, preferably an old mom&pop op and they will have what you need. If not they can order it for you when they do stocking and save you shipping money from any internet company. I used to work at one is how I know. Have a good one
Degraded tape, dirty heads (clean with acetone and Q tip but don't get on plastic), dry coupling capacitors.This assumes that the distortion that you refer to is dirty or fuzzy sounding audio. If a new tape, recorded and played back, sounds ok then your electronics are in good shape. That means your tapes are junk. If cleaning heads takes care of it, well that's pretty obvious. If your capacitors are dried out you will need to bring it in to a repair shop.
very likely that the drive belt has broken. I have fixed a TEAC myself using a large O-Ring from a hardware store (I know I was lucky to find a very close match). Open the unit and find the broken belt and take it to a hardware store to "size up" a replacement. Use the opportunity to oil the gear shafts and clean the rubber pinch roller.
Just bought a unit from a thrift store. Found same problem; FF & RW OK, but play engages then stops. Also noticed buzzing noise when power turned on. Opened unit, found broken capstan drive belt. FF & RW driven from different motor. Buzz was drive motor running freely with no load - when power is on, capstan is driven all the time for fast play/record start. Replaced with rubber band, and it works --- now looking for replacement belt.