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Dryer operates normally but does not heat. - Kenmore Dryers

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  • Kenmore Master
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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2 Answers

Dryer runs but doesn't heat.


The high and Low thermostatic limit switches must be in working order for the heating element to get power to operate. High limit opens in the event of a overheat condition to cut off the heating element. The low limit cuts on and off to control normal operation of the heating element for a more or less constant heat for drying.

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No heat or air blowing inside unit


Are you sure you dont have a clogged Dryer Vnet?
If you are in the market for an Dryer Vent cleaning check out Dryer Vent Cleaning Dallas Tx.

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Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

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1 Answer

Lgr5620kq1 dryer,heat comes on but does not stay on,


If you find that the dryer initially lights, then goes out and the igniter coil glows, then also goes out, it's the valve solenoid coil, about $25.

There is a temperature limit switch as well. This usually either fails entirely (no heat at all) or operates the burner out of the normal range (often showing up as clothes taking too long to dry).

A clogged dryer vent will cause problems with heat cycling, too.


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1 Answer

My heating element stays on for about 15 sec at a time-is this normal?


Is is normal for the heating element to cycle on and off. The element is usually protected by an operating (or hi-limit) thermostat that helps regulate the internal operating temperature. The element is not supposed to stay on continuously or you could end up with a scorched clothing, or a fire hazard. As your clothes get dryer, the heating element should cycle less. As long as you are not having any problems with dryer performance, you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

However, if your dryer is heating, but you are experiencing longer dry times or poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some things to check before you assume there is a malfunction with your dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If not vented properly, a dryer will not dry efficiently, will actually take longer than required to dry, and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter than usual in many cases as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This is also the source of many fire hazards if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes.

If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: If you thoroughly check everything and still have problems let me know. The problem could be related to a thermostat failure.

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1 Answer

My gas dryer is tumbling, but there is not heat coming to the unit


The dryer has a ignitor which operates the same way as your range for you stove. It is electronicly operated upon turning on the source to operated. Upon starting your dryer as you would normally do you should hear a clicking noise within seconds to ignite the burner. If not the power to the ignitor is opened or the ignitor is a fault

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1 Answer

My frigid air dryer turns on and tumbles but will not heat up. We are doing renos and the duct(ing) is not connected to the dryer vent. Is that the cause? thanks.


No probably not the reason for not heating, what comes to mind first is check for proper 220/240 voltage is getting to the dryer, a dryer will run and seem to operate normally evn with getting only 110/115 volts but that is not enough power to energize the heating element to heat the air blowing into the dryer,or you may have a failed dryer heating element. Good luck !

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1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer 110.60712990 Series 70 heats but does not dry the clothes. A friend with a meter came over and said that there is 9.8 ohms resistance on the heating element. Is this within normal...


Your heating element is good. It should read between 9 to 13 ohms. If the heating circuits are working, then you don't have a problem with the heating circuits. The numbe ron cause of drye heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).

If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.

If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.

Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Samsung dryer smells like gas


Replace the operator coils. They are intermittant. Typical operator coils look like this:
089d400.jpg

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