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12 ga single shot...forearm came off...need to bond metal screw post to barrel....please hepl

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SOURCE: I need the screws that hold the tube to the barrel

The question you have asked is not clear and specific, but let me try to help you.

you can get screw to hold the tube for your barrel model 12 is easily availbe in any stores dealing with electroninc goods ,all you need to specify the model and brand name to the sales man

If you are satisfied with my answer please vote three thumbs up.Thank you

Posted on Dec 06, 2010

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SOURCE: 1986 dodge ram 225ci slant six and a single barrel holley carb

Start with the idle needle screw first, the idle mixture screw. Seat it all the way in, first-don't overtighten and damage it, just seat it lightly, and back out two full turns. Run the engine and set the adjustment by ear to get your best lean idle: start turning the screw in (clockwise) 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time till engine stumbles, dies, or runs rough. Keep the engine running, and turn screw out (counterclockwise) a little at a time till you hear the idle dropping. Now between those two settings is your best lean idle. Turn the screw in, a little at a time and wait for engine to respond, tiill you get the highest idle speed. Now set the other idle screw, curb idle, to the idle setting for your truck, probably about 700 rpm. You can move back and forth between the screws to get the best steady idle. Just don't over do it on the idle mixture screw.
Good luck.

Posted on May 08, 2012

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SOURCE: Need parts for winchester model 12 shotgun

The following website carries all the parts for the model 12

Posted on Oct 16, 2012

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SOURCE: I bought an Iver Johnson single barrel 12 guage shot gun. Can anyone tell me about this gun?

It was built on the 1890 Hopkins and Allen patent and is very similar to several dozens of inexpensive single shot shotguns.

Posted on Dec 03, 2014

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Where can I get a j Steven arms co 105/107 single shot 12 ga trigger guard?

That's Numrich. If you like guns, bookmark it.

That flat strap trigger guard is a sort of standard item. You attach the front screw and then gently bend the back til it suits you and it fits the back screw hole.

Big fan of old singles, too. I pick them up any chance I get just to sand and polish and repair. It's a great hobby.

Aug 23, 2016 | Optics

1 Answer

Trying to find year and manufacturer of a single shot 410 breakover shotgun. Serial number L5972 has serated area by notched site.

iver johnson single barrel champion shotguns with a single letter suffix to the serial number were manufactured between 1920 and 1929. it seem that most of the 410 were used quite a bit and very few are in excellent condition. the original finish was an oil finished stock, browned barrel and case hardened frame.

CHAMPION MODEL 36--------------------------------1909-1922
Single barrel; rebounding center mounted hammer; top lever operated break open design; gauges: 12, 16, and 20; barrel length: 28, 30, and 32 inches (features barrel and lug forged in one piece) bored full chock only; American black Walnut but* stock and fore-end; automatic extractors; weight 6¾ pounds; overall length with 30 inch barrel 45 inches; case hardened receiver (nickel available as option), browned barrel; automatic ejectors extra cost option; .410 bore, 24 and 28 gauges offered in 1913; 24 gauge dropped 1928; all gauges except 12 dropped after 1941; name changed to Champion single Barrel in 1917.
CHAMPION SINGLE BARREL---------------------------1923-1978
This is the same gun as the earlier Model 36 champion except that the smaller gauges are now built on the same frame as the large gagues. See above picture for specifications. The exact year production stopped has not yet been determined. Some of these single barrel shotguns have been seen with Canadian marking, these were most likely shipped to Canada and then marked as there is no evidence that Iver Johnson's Arms & Cycle Works ever had a manufacturing factory in Canada

Jun 01, 2015 | Optics

1 Answer

I have a single shot 20 ga.and the stalk is broke can i get replacement stalk and four arm

Sounds like a nice project to repair and pass along to grand kids. You will likely need to provide some pictures if you want to identify it or take it by a knowledgeable gunsmith or collector. replacement "stocks" and forearms are available. A good craftsman could even fabricate replacements from scratch. Good luck.

Jan 04, 2015 | Optics

1 Answer

How can i find out what length of a shells are ok to use in my Harrington & Richardson arms co. Worcester Mass. U.S.A single shot 410 ga. shot gun

It should be stamped on the barrel. If not, please take it to a gunsmith. He should be able to tell you what lenght of shell can be safely fired from the gun.

Nov 09, 2014 | Optics

1 Answer

Can't remove stock from Rossi single shot

Remove the butt plate (should be 2 screws), shine a light down the stock bolt hole to determine if you need a socket and extension or a long screwdriver. Use the appropriate tool to remove the stock bolt. Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

Oct 02, 2013 | Rossi 308 Winchester Single Shot w/23 Blue...

1 Answer

How can I find the model # of my 12 ga S&W shot gun?

Look at the barrel. It should have some stamped or etched information there. It should give you the model, serial and place of origin.

Aug 18, 2013 | Cycling

1 Answer

I bought a Remington 870 at Christmas time. The first time i shot it the shells are jamming in the gun. I took it home cleaned it and oiled it real good. Went and shot it again same problem. Either...

If the 870 is a Magnum model it should accept 3" shells. After making absolutely sure you have an unloaded shotgun, both chamber and magazine are empty, empty, empty, proceed with these few checks.

Assuming it may be a 2 3/4' model, have you double checked on the left side of the barrel near the receiver? There will be gauge and shell length stampings on the barrel. If you are jamming 3" shells in to a 2 3/4" shotgun you will get jams as you describe. Look at the empty shell casings if you have any and see if the shell appears to be damaged from the chambered and firing process. This could also indicate you have a improper shell length issue.
If you are shooting reloaded ammo make sure it has been properly re-sized, crimped and reloaded.
sloppy reloading of shotgun shells can cause jams as you describe. Improperly re-loaded shells can also cause leaks of bb's, (shot) in to the receiver and bore area.

Check for a loose bb. or bb's, (shot) in the receiver and chamber area. A lodged bb. in these areas will cause problems you have described.

Run your fingers along the barrel and visually check it for any slight bulge. If you detect or suspect a bulge do not shoot or load the shotgun until a gunsmith or the factory check the barrel thoroughly. If someone had loaded a 20, 16 or similar smaller guage shell in the chamber by accident and the gun was fired it will usually cause at minimum a stressed and bulged barrel. Many times a slight bulge in the barrel may not be visually obvious.

Most of the time if a 12 gauge shell gets loaded behind that one and fired you will have catastrophic failures, i.e. the gun can blow up and cause serious harm, blindness or even death in rare cases to the shooter. Shooters call this a "20/12" catastrophic failure. This type of accident is not to be taken lightly! this is why shotgun shells of different gauges are different in color normally.
Never ever, mix shotgun gauge shells in a pouch or box.

If you pump the shotgun too easily, (i.e. wimpy) it can jam up. Always pump, "rack" a shotgun with vigor. I'm not suggesting abusive action, just don't be slow or overly gentle with the pump action that ejects a shell and reloads the next one. Something related to this is if your action/slide bar is out of alignment or has become torqued out of it's proper alignment this will cause problems as you have mentioned. The action/slide bar is a long single piece of flat metal that is in alignment with the barrel and is attached to the front forearm of the shotgun. This is the flat piece of metal that actually makes the action open and close as you pump the shotgun. There is one on the left underside of the bore and forearm of the shotgun. When you pump the action you will easily observe it moving with your pumping action.

Check how the empty action feels to you. While dry-firing, (using an unloaded shotgun), does the action feel smooth or perhaps, gritty, sluggish, overly tight? If any of the later the you need to double check for debris, shot, excessive old lubrication, gumming of the action, a bent action/slide bar, etc. A normal 870 has a very smooth action.

Also, check the bore for any obvious nicks or obstructions that don't belong there. A good quality shotgun such as your 870 should operate best with very little lubrication. Excessive lubrication over time can cause gumming up of the receiver area. Also, improper lubrication products. Improper lubrication can cause problems you have described.

I am not a gun smith. I am simply an avid gun enthusiast. If you have any doubts as to anything that you observe while performing these basic checks on your shotgun, I strongly advise you to call the factory or take it to a local gun smith. Many gun shops will give your shotgun a courtesy check over and if you don't find a solution, many times they will within a few minutes. Do not be embarrassed to take the gun in to a gunsmith! Trust me, they will most likely treat you and you gun with respect and courtesy. Otherwise they won't be in business much longer.
If the gun shop fixes your problem make sure and purchase some shells and perhaps something else from them. We must support our small business firearms dealers and gun smiths

Hope this helps you!

Feb 02, 2011 | Remington Shotgun Mount 12Ga Lh, B Square...

1 Answer

Point of impact changes with every shot

Usually, the first place to start is to ensure the base screws are tight. I normally put a drop or two of clear fingernail polish on the screw threads prior to installing them. This is just a light duty thread locking agent to keep vibrations from loosening the screws. The scope rings need to be tight enough to prevent the scope's movement under recoil.

If the screws are tight, it might be a barrel bedding problem, where the barrel is contacting the forearm as it heats up from shooting. Without knowing what variety of firearm you have, I really can't suggest a DIY solution.

If neither of those are solutions, it may just be the ammunition you're using. All guns do not necessarily like the same ammunition and some will prefer Winchester to Remington or even Federal (or other brands I haven't mentioned). Sometimes it takes a carefully crafted handload to bring satisfying results.

If all else fails, here's the on line BSA warranty information.

There will also be contact information at the top of that page.

Nov 09, 2009 | BSA ® 3-9x50 mm IRD Rifle Scope Matte...

1 Answer

Rifle is shooting "strings" First round hits where I want it to and then I end up with a 5 shot group that is 6 inches long and one inch wide moving upwards from original hit at a 45 degree angle from...

The reason your shots are stringing is because the barrel is touching the stock probably at the end of the forearm. As the barrel heats up, the problem gets worse. Try sanding out the barrel channel and free-floating the barrel all the way to the recoil lug. Next, torque the action in the stock the recommended amount with an inch pound torque wrench. I torque my Remington 700 at 45 inch pounds for the front screw and 35 inch pounds for the rear screw. If you have a plastic trigger guard, 35 inch pounds will be too much for the light plastic trigger guard.

Aug 11, 2009 | Tasco Optics

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