Question about Jenn-Air JES9800A Electric Kitchen Range

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Jenn-air electric range model svd48600 is very slow to heat to set temp in bake mode. What are the likely causes?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: jenn air jgr8850adw won't bake

This usually is an indication of a bad igniter. If this is the standard glow type igniter, it could appear as if it is working, but may not be providing enough current to open the gas valve. This is a safety feature on gas ovens. The gas valve requires a current potential of .32 to .37 amps through the igniter before it will open and allow gas to flow. This prevents gas leakage if the igniter fails to light. The reason your broiler works is probably due to the fact that the broiler gets used less and the igniter is probably in better condition. You can test this theory, if you like, by swapping the igniter for the bake and broil burners to see if the symptoms change. Or, you can simply just replace the bake igniter with a new one. Make sure you secure the power before attempting, though. You shouldn't have to turn off the gas for this. Chances are that's all it is. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 14, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: frigidiare electric range time bake and self cleaning

Not sure what brand of oven this is but there should be a tech sheet on the back of the oven or it may tell you in the owners manual what those codes mean. Might be a faulty oven temp. sensor for faulty wiring/connection to that sensor. If f3 means sensor on your unit and the wiring is ok then replace the sensor.

Posted on Oct 05, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool electric range model # RF261PXSQ oven not heating

I'm afraid you may have a blown Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. The EOC controls all the functions of the oven. The surface elements are controlled by individual infinite switches behind each control knob.. That's why the surface elements all work, but the oven does not. A replacement EOC can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and you will find it under the "Control Panel Parts" heading as item number 12. There are several listed, based upon the color you need (White, Biscuit, and Black). This is a very simple repair that any do-it-yourselfer can accomplish if you wish to perform this on your own. All you have to do is UNPLUG the appliance and remove the back panel of the console to access.

Before assuming the EOC is defective, however, inspect the board to see if it has a fuse on it. I do not have a wiring diagram to confirm. Some of these boards do have fuses and that's all that it may take to repair it. However, if the board shows signs of burned components, replace it. NOTE: Check for any loose connectors to the board as well.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have questions and/or require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Electronic Display

Go to, fixitnow.com for a cheap fix on these displays. It worked on my jenn air.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

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1 Answer

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I would start by checking the temp sensor of the bake temp settings. Pull it and its most likely bad your thermostat control, also did you ohm out the element before installing it i have bought many new bad ones as well. anything else just ask.

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HI,
You should have 120 to the element when not in bake mode, while in bake mode you should have 220 - 240 volt. Sounds like you lost a relay to send the additional power to the element, or you have a High Limit thermostat which could be open. This is a safety device to protect the unit from over heating, this only goes if temperatures increase higher the safety levels, normally set about 200 degrees or so along the air flow channels. I would trace from the elements to the clock and find the missing source of current.
I hope this helps
Be safe with electricity......

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not very specific in your statement, so I'll venture a few things to look at.

Check to see that it is getting the correct power (voltage). Could be wired wrong.

Several things could be causing this. If electric, wrong or low voltage. If it is new, just out of the box, then it could have received some shipping damage. Delivery trucks never hit potholes (Ha Ha). A simple wire could be loose or probe knocked out of position.

Something is telling the controls that the desired temp is reached and the unit it cycling off.

This may or may not be a simple fix.

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I am having a hard time trying to find new oven racks for a Jenn-Air gas electric grill range model #: svd48600. Have any ideas where I can find them?


http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=svd48600



click this link, then choose your model, then on the left side under select diagram scroll down to # 7 oven, and presto.

Dec 04, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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