Question about Jenn-Air JES9800A Electric Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: jenn air jgr8850adw won't bake
This usually is an indication of a bad igniter. If this is the standard glow type igniter, it could appear as if it is working, but may not be providing enough current to open the gas valve. This is a safety feature on gas ovens. The gas valve requires a current potential of .32 to .37 amps through the igniter before it will open and allow gas to flow. This prevents gas leakage if the igniter fails to light. The reason your broiler works is probably due to the fact that the broiler gets used less and the igniter is probably in better condition. You can test this theory, if you like, by swapping the igniter for the bake and broil burners to see if the symptoms change. Or, you can simply just replace the bake igniter with a new one. Make sure you secure the power before attempting, though. You shouldn't have to turn off the gas for this. Chances are that's all it is. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 14, 2007
Not sure what brand of oven this is but there should be a tech sheet on the back of the oven or it may tell you in the owners manual what those codes mean. Might be a faulty oven temp. sensor for faulty wiring/connection to that sensor. If f3 means sensor on your unit and the wiring is ok then replace the sensor.
Posted on Oct 05, 2007
I'm afraid you may have a blown Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. The EOC controls all the functions of the oven. The surface elements are controlled by individual infinite switches behind each control knob.. That's why the surface elements all work, but the oven does not. A replacement EOC can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and you will find it under the "Control Panel Parts" heading as item number 12. There are several listed, based upon the color you need (White, Biscuit, and Black). This is a very simple repair that any do-it-yourselfer can accomplish if you wish to perform this on your own. All you have to do is UNPLUG the appliance and remove the back panel of the console to access.
Before assuming the EOC is defective, however, inspect the board to see if it has a fuse on it. I do not have a wiring diagram to confirm. Some of these boards do have fuses and that's all that it may take to repair it. However, if the board shows signs of burned components, replace it. NOTE: Check for any loose connectors to the board as well.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have questions and/or require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
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