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a couple things to look at. Did the saw stop operating or was the blade not wanting to cut. Remove the battery and CAREFULLY feel the blade for dull or broken segments. If the blalde stopped check to make sure not a loose bolt holding it on. Did you reverse the blade for cutting the vinyl. Let me know more information and I will try and help
I have 8 differant saws but not a dewalt and have not ever heard of or seen a shear pin on a drive shaft of a motor its a stright shot through the motor to the brushes and there is no gearing or reduction box I would say check the blade connection and washer assembly or the end bearing on the shaft may be worn out and binding under a load. Dose the blade spin true or can you wiggle it from side to side and feel play in the bearing I soppose it could also be some kind of electrical issue where something is shorting under load but that would still bring me back to movement in the shaft that is binding the motor.
When you are facing the front of the table saw. Right above the Dewalt logo, there is a hand wheel that if you crank clockwise - it will tilt your table saw blade to the angle shown where the hand wheel is.
12" Carbide Tipped Blade
Miter and Compound cutting
12 1/2" Saw Travel
Serial #: 70170423
Furnacs starter and reset
Steel Table with oak top
Dust Collector sheetmetal thing
Without knowing the full problem, (theheader is cut off) I would ask are you using the fence to help you rip? and when does the board jamb? If it jambs toward the back of the saw the guide might not be square with the blade. I would unplug it and put something that you know is square on the front edge of the blade away from the teeth and adjust the fence so that it is just snub then lock down the table and move the square to the back of saw, it should move with no resistance. If it does then the fence is out. What you would need to do if this is the case is align the fence to the blade, on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that you need to loosen put your square at the front again and lock down the handle with that done move the square to the back and tap the rail on the back side to move tighter or looser and then lock down the bolts. What I do is move the fence away and then back and start all over again to make sure nothing shifted. It sounds more involved than it is. Let me know if this cures your problem
The more compact design, in which the motor sits alongside the blade — starts at around $100. There are many saws on the market under this price, but they're not as powerful, nor are they built for a lifetime's use. Professional-grade sidewinders, which run quieter and cut through dense wood better, cost between $125 and $150.
I'm not sure why the instructions said to change the blade in order to cut the slot. I've made several of the zero clearance inserts (for different blades) and always made the slot with the blade I intend to use it with. Of course, you need to match the inserts to the blades (I just tie wrap them together.