Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Posted on Oct 17, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Poor drying problems with dryers generally are attributed to clogged ducting. You have probably heard this before, but the first (and least expensive) fix for any dryer with long dry times is to check the air movement. As well know, dryers require good air flow to ensure proper drying. Now, when you said the air movement is strong, were you checking it at the air vent exhaust outside, or were you checking on the back of the dryer? An easy way to tell if there's a clog in the ducting, or a clog in the dryer is to run one load with the dryer vent disconnected from the back of the machine. Only run one load like this. Not a good idea to blow hot moist air into an enclosed area of your home over a period of time because it can cause mildew problems. If the dryer blows freely and your clothes dry faster, you know you need to check the ducting from where it connects to the wall to where it ends at the exhaust vent. Often it is not enough to just clean the lint trap and the outside vent. You need to check what's in between them as well. Mice and birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents and clogging them up. Now...if the dryer is blowing poorly at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer, you will need to remove the door kick panel under the door and remove the vent duct housing to get to the blower fan. Make sure you unplug the dryer before attempting this. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Lint can get trapped in vent housing and restrict the movement of the fan, which, in turn, will cause poor air movement and longer dry times. Last of all, take a temperature reading at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. A good temperature reading is roughly 140 degrees F. If the temperature is too low, you may have an operating thermostat or high limit thermostat malfunctioning. Check your vent ducting, first and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
If you have ever removed the lint filter area completely via the screws that hold the plastics in so you could clean it then remove it again and insure that you plugged in the two wires that go to the strip sensor.. (moisture sensor)
Posted on May 17, 2008
Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:
Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.
Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.
If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:
1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.
If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
SOURCE: it takes several cycles to
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.
Clean your dryer vents, and lint filters. You may need to clean vent from wall to outside. to test this.. unhook vent pipe from wall..and run dryer and see what happens. or you have a defective heat coil
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Posted on Dec 28, 2010
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