Question about Black & Decker Husky 750w Power Inverter
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Question does not seem to match this inverters capability.
This Power Inverter converts vehicle’s 12-volt DC power into household 115-volt AC power. AC and USB outlets power and/or recharge personal electronics.
We have owned one of these Power inverters for over a year now and have run a great deal with it, from TV to drill press PC and any thing that was small and that could run from my car. Very nice product.
SET UP: Connect wires. ensure correct polarity, push button on top. Plug in 110 volt appliance.
Hope this tip was of some use.
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
There are two possibilites: the first is the over 400W power draw, the other is how you have the inverter connected. Do you have the inverter connected directly to the battery terminals (the clips) not the outlet plug (cigaretter lighter)? This is needed for any load over 80W and under 400W. (the inverter can handle a load demand over the 400W limit but only for short periods (800W).)
What is the load that your PC pulls (Is it a laptop or a desktop)? The laptop in my home has either a 65W or a 90W load (depending on the battery and the AC adapter we are using). Desktops take much more power (usually).
I hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
I've had this inverter for about two years now, bought it for a cross
country road trip to power my laptop and a couple of other things. I've
pretty much liked it. Yes, the fan is a little noisey, yes, you have to
use the provided battery clips for heavy loads. But it powers my Dell
Inspiron 8500 laptop just fine (and its an old powerhog).
Recently a I let a friend use it with his inflatable mattress air pump during a camping trip.
What I didn't know is his pump has insane wattage, and it fried/bricked the inverter instantly.
Agh! I thought it was a goner, but took the time to look inside the unit. (Which is a solid and sturdy metal case, not plastic as another reviewer indicated). I was thrilled to discover there were some internal fuses. And while the fuses are soldered to the circuit board, if you've done any soldering at all they really are a snap to replace.
If you remove the four screws that hold the end cover plate on the side with the fan. You can remove the end plate and have just about a half inch or so of clearance. The entire lower circuit board will then slide out with firm pressure about an inch and a half (don't try and go any further, components on the other side prevent it).
On the right side (positive/red terminal side), you will see two 25 amp mini-fuses that are directly soldered to the circuit board. If these are blown (you can see through the semi-transparent sides if they still connect), that is most likely your problem. They are easily available from most auto and big department stores (Walmart, Target, etc) in their automotive sections.
I used a 40 watt soldering iron (30 watt should work fine), and applied it to the bottom of the circuit board where the fuse legs poke out the bottom. Using a pair of pliers, I applied a firm steady pressure to the fuse, pulling up, while applying the soldering iron to each of the legs (alternately) of the fuse. The solder melted, and I was able to work the fuse out in a few seconds. I did this for both fuses.
The replacement fuses cost all of $2. I dipped the new fuse legs in flux, then put them in the place of the old fuses. Again I heated the circuit board solder from below, and pushed the new fuse in place. Repeat with the second fuse until it is in place. Flip the board over and add some more new solder until it is firmly in place. Put it back together, and you are back in business! And for a whole lot less than a new inverter.
I've got pics of this process if anyone would like them. Good luck, and happy inverting.
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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