Question about Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

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When cutting vertically down a piece of wood the cut veers to the left all the time even when i try to steer it right

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You may have a slightly bend in your bar. Take something straight like a line level and put it next to both sides of your bar and try to see if you see the bend. If the chain is still tracking ok than the bend may not be noticable by eye. A replacement bar can be purchased at Lowes Home Improvement Center for around $30. If replacing the bar does not solve your issue Lowes will allow you to return it within 90 days. I if replacing the bar does not solve the problem I would recommend taking it to a Husqvarna repair Center.

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My tp305 removes more wood on the left than on the right. There does'nt seem to be anmy way to adjust this, is there?


These portable planers have a not-negligible amount of flex to them, and you will probably remove a bit of wood even if you run the board through a second time on the same side. But try this to determine if you would want to try to reset the blade height---- run two narrow pieces simultaneously on the left and right. Check the thickness before and after with calipers or something precise. Then switch the two boards and run them again without changing the setting. If it is only cutting on one side, and the thickness was significantly different before the second run, then you might want to adjust the blades in the cutter-head.
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Making a wooden picture frame with perfect corners


Picture frames are very easy to make, but many people make the same very basic mistake that will ruin your frame. It is very important that you follow the carpenters rule of measure twice and cut once. If you don't cut the sides of the frame to be the same length, and you cut the angles of the corners slightly off then when you put it together the final corner won't line up.

The things that you are going to need is a miter saw, some clamps, a backer board and a drafting squares to make sure you have the right angle.

To set up take your backer board and cut off a piece that's around 4 inches to be used as a sliding marker gauge. After cutting it off attach a small piece of wood to keep the slider from shifting around.

With the saw unplugged and turned off clamp the backer board to the back of the saw. To cut the corners of the a frame you need to set the saw to a 45 degree angle. Make sure to check the angle using a drafting square align one side with the backer board and bring down the saw blade align them to make sure its a 45 degree angle. When you think that its right grab yourself a piece of scrap wood and make an initial cut. After cutting the test measure the angle to make sure that it is the right angle.

When you are ready to cut the frame itself take the four pieces of the frame and make an initial cut. Once all the boards have been cut once take your slider marker to the length that you want the sides of the frame to be and clamp it in. Take the first two sides and one at a time line it up with the backer board with the angle on the outside and the cut point against the slider. Turn on the saw and cut the other end. Repeat these steps to cut the other three sides.

After all the sides have been cut use a 90 degree angle to align the corners of the frame. Lay out all the sides of the frame and line them up as tight as you can. To connect them you can use a staple gun to staple the corners together. If you were aligning it and pushing the sides together when you stapled the corners you should have perfectly aligned corners.

Now all that's left is to sand it down and get the inside ready for a picture and stain it if you want.

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Tip

All purpose presentation easel a DIY project


You never know when you are going to need or want an easel to show off your art work, maybe your kids want to finger paint who knows they could be the next Van Gogh. Building a display easel is very simple and can be done in just a few hours.

You want to start with two pieces of wood cut to 2x82" these pieces will form the front legs of the easel. Using a table saw cut the tops of the wood to a 15* angle. Take a measuring tape and measure 78" from the bottom of the wood (up to the angle cut) mark this spot on both pieces.
Using a drill, drill a 3/8" hole through the widest side of the angle as a right angle to the cut. Repeat for the second front leg.

To make the back leg cut a piece of wood down to 2x81" long, using your drill, drill two 3/8" holes in the widest side of the wood. One hole should be 39" from the bottom of the wood and the second at 74" from the bottom.

Your art work needs something to sit on so to make the cross bar cut a piece of wood down to 2x47".

Now you are ready to assemble your easel. Take the front and back legs and lay them on the floor next to each other with the back leg in the middle. Rotate the front legs to the angle is facing the back leg and line up the holes. Slide a bolt into the hole and place a washer and a nut on the end, keeping it loose enough to adjust the angle. Stand up the easel and spread the from legs so that they are 45" away from the back leg. Tighten the bolt and you have the angle right and lay it back down.

To attach the cross bar, measure 38" up from the bottoms of the front legs find the center and drill a 3/8" hole in each and bolt the cross bar to the legs. To keep the legs from spreading too far you can attach a chain between the cross bar and the back leg. To do this you thread the chain through the hole in the back leg and tie it off. Attach an eye screw to the cross bar and loop the chain through it to keep limit how far the legs can spread to the angle that you want to work or display at.

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1 Answer

Distributor problem? keeps cutting off and steering veers right


your stering problem is loss ov power stering when engine quits but try changing gas filter a common problem in toyota

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1 Answer

When i try to do a horizontal cut my saw seems to bite in for a start, but then just runs free in the tree not taking a bite or drawing the saw in, this has also happened with 45% cuts, is this my own...


Sawing with a chainsaw is mostly 2 part, a sharp chain and good technique.

If your bar is straight, your chain is razor sharp and the oil reservoir full then it boils down to technique.

You cannot run a chainsaw through horizontally on a big tree, what will happen is half the time the tree's weight will begin to collapse upon the bar and pinch it in the tree and you will not be able to saw any further.

You will notice that when felling a tree the vertical cuts are always problem free because gravity pulls the off-cut away from the saw. With horizontal cuts fire your blade in at an angle, and in cut in the direction the tree (or whatever) is likly to fall. As you cut rock your blade to help it bite into the wood and resist jamming. If your chain jams do not keep on the gas for you will burn out the clutch.

For an awkard cut instead of feeding it right through cut towards the middle to create a notch, then cut from the other side, the weight of the tree will fall on the cut portion leaving your blade free to slice through.

Just think logically and make sure that the blade can feed through without getting pinched, this is well represented if you get a log and support both sides then cut vertically in the centre; it will get pinched imeediatly. Now cut from the underside and it will fly right through.

This is difficult to describe but plan your cuts and test it out.

Cheers,

Kevin

Feb 12, 2010 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

Fix hardwood flooring replace damaged hardwood flooring wood planks


During the whole process be aware of the edges of the flooring that is going to stay. First prepare the area for dust control. Mark the boards to be replaced. With a flat wood bit in your drill, bore a hole near, but not at both ends of the pieces being replaced. Bore only to the sub-floor. Set your circular saw to cut thru the flooring but barely touch the sub-floor beneath. Make two passes with the saw about 1/2" in from each edge. Lift out the center of the piece being removed. With a sharp chisel split the small end pieces at each saw cut and remove. With a chisel, tap the groove side of the piece toward the middle and remove. There may be a little chisel work to get it out. There will be a bit more chisel work on the tongue side. Chisel the tongue side until the fasteners are located and remove them. Remove the piece completely and remove any paper between the flooring and the sub-floor. Vacuum the area to prepare for the new board. Lay the new piece next to the opening and mark the length. If this is end match, t&g at teh ends cut the ends square. I mark heavily and leave my mark when I cut. It can be cut again if it is too long. Choice here are, cut the bottom of the groove and or the tongue off the new board. I leave the tongue and hook the piece in place. Easier to remove it though. Back cut the length on a table saw, being careful not to reduce the size of the face. This will make the bottom of the board narrower than the face. A sander can be used if no table saw is available. Once sized put glue on the sub-floor and put in the replacement piece. If the tongue was left, it must be tapped sideways to get to the point where it will drop in. Do not hit the wood directly. Used a scrap piece as convincer. When lined up, use a scrap piece of wood to drive the new piece down into place. The new board will be thicker and will need sanding. Congrats.

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1 Answer

1997 diesel suburban steering goes left


I doubt it's your 4x4. Most transfer case will start turning the front driveshaft, meaning that BOTH front wheels would try to turn.

Could be a brake pad/caliper locking up on your left wheel. That'll make that wheel turn slower resulting in the veering left.

Could also be a wheel bearing. However usually you'll hear a grinding noise to go along with that. And it'll pull rather consistently in that direction rather than suddenly.

Or, what first comes to mind is that your steering box is loose, or the gear inside the steering box is stripped in one spot. Or your front tie rods could be shifting or possibly ball joints. These would cause a sudden shifting/veering.

All of these things are front end related. And also very dangerous. Take it down to any alignment shop, have them put it on a lift, and diagnose immediately.

Worse case scenerio is that a front end part breaks and sends you out of control and into someone else. Please get it checked. A diesel Suburban could do a lot of damage.

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CHECK THE CUT OF THE KEY. IF WORN REPLACE KEY WITH FRESH CUT. MAKE SURE BATTERY FULLY CHARGED

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Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.

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