Question about GE 24 in. GSD6660GSS Built-in Dishwasher

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I have an older model GE Potscrubber GSD3830Z02WW. There is water dripping from the black housing under the unit during the wash cycle. i have looked at the various web sites at the parts list for this model but do not see anything that looks like this black housing. is this just a cover for the motor and pump assembly?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: GE GSD222oz dishwahser

You need new pump seal. Will need to pull dishwasher and pull motor/pump

Posted on Jun 17, 2007

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  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: GE dishwasher leaks

Yes

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: GE Potscrubber Disshwasher GSD700G, wont cycle

Most washers do not fill they spray the dishes. When enough water has accumulated in the bottom a float switch shuts off the water and turns on the pump to remove the water. If the pump motor does not remove the water the cycle will not continue but the timer will. There may be something clogging the pump and resulting in an overload condition for the motor. This would account for the smell. A pump may turn freely when you spin it by hand because you cannot spin it fast enough by hand to determine if the pump is obstructed. Does the cycle drain the water? If the cycle stops and there is water in the bottom not being pumped out then you should look at the pump and the motor to determine problem.

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

SOURCE: Leak from dishwasher

I currently had the same problem with mine and the culprit was the boot that screws on to the spray arm which serves as the seal from the spray arm to the motor.To find out spin the base of the spray arm loose and take off the screw tightened clamp that holds the boot to the motor. Mine had dry rotted and leaked very badly.The part as only about $10. Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Nautilus dishwasher keeps PUMPING water "out" of the machine during the entire wash cycle. I have removed all covers in the bottom of the unit to see if anything is stock. Used vinegar and CLR

If this convert-able dishwasher is permanently installed, you will have to take off the lower access panel to get to the pump area. If it is still in a portable configuration, it may be easier to lay the dishwasher on it's back or side to do this. Now, examine the pump / motor assembly. There is not a separate water pump on this model. There is a diverter pump out solenoid which get's pulled down to direct the water out the drain hose for pump out, which is suppose to spring back out of the way to allow water to go up to the spray arms for washing. I suspect that the solenoid got to hot and the plunger will no longer slide in the solenoid. If this is the case, you can replace it with a WD21X802. If the arm and plunger move freely, check the spring, or for obstructions in the pump housing, or possibly the diverter arm in the pump housing has come loose from the shaft. The solenoid is the most likely.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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Dishwasher won't drain at the end of the cycle


Whenever an appliance does operate its pumps/valves heaters correctly for part of a cycle then doesnt at another point, it is a problem with the controller of the sequence in the cycle.. On older devices this can be a rotating knob that slowly runs to end of cycle triggering events as it turns, by tripping blade switches near the rotating item. On these the switch trigger points can be inspected and sometimes repaired. On newer items the cycle is controlled electronically, and you have to replace the whole control unit, which is usually a large expensive part that includes the display and all buttons. Try getting a used control unit from Ebay and swapping it out, or consider replacing the whole appliance.

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When the water drains at the end of the cycle, water drains from the bottoom of the dishwasher, around what looks like an actuator arm? not exactly what the model # is all i know is it is a GE potscrubber...


Hi, I have seen this a lot when I did maintenance work for apartment communities.The part to fix this depending on modle was $85-$125 six years ago, I would just replace it.

Mar 05, 2011 | GE Dishwashers

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My old GE potscrubber 700 dishwasher stopped working


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Dec 07, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

GE washing macine stops during the wash cycle


This is exactly what my machine was doing, as well. I fixed it by cleaning out the filter in front of the water pump.

Searching here, I found that you can remove the lower front panel (three screws along the bottom edge is all it takes) to get to the filter. With the panel removed, you'll see a round white plastic cover (about 3-4 inches diameter) that screws out. Get a bucket under the cover to catch the water that's in it (could be 2 quarts or more) and unscrew the cover.

The cover pulls out, revealing that is actually a screw-in plastic strainer. I found tons of coins, broken pens, paper clips, etc. in mine when I did this. A lot will be deep inside the black rubber hose that connects this filter housing to the washer drum. You can rake the stuff out with a bent wire clothes hanger. Shaking the black hose will help hurry the junk along and out of your machine. Screw the cover back on after the clean out and your machine should go back to normal.

Thinking about it, front loaders will have lots of small items flushed into the pump compared to top loaders. Coins you alway found in the bottom of the drum in a top loader, they all wind up in the filter of a front loader. And once it slow the drainage to a crawl the machine will shut down multiple times when it can't drain the water out completely, and it will never step up to it's max spin speed with all that water still in the drum.

Nov 26, 2009 | GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaking Kenmore Elite HE3T only during drain cycle?


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Mar 04, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine is leaking water and leaking oil.


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Jan 03, 2009 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Dishwasher not washing


sounds like the wash pump (wich recirculates the water during wash) has something stuck in the impelor or the wash pump motor is faulty. someone qualified would have to check this for you

Feb 18, 2008 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Washer leaking water from bottom


Probably a main tub seal, big job!

Nov 16, 2007 | Maytag MAV7600 Top Load Washer

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