Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher

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The bottom drawer does not lock, the plastic spring catch on the right side rail (rear) is "sprung" before the drawer is fully engaged, suggesting that something is in the way and pushing closed the plastic catch - any suggestions?

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I am slightly unsure of the problem you are having with the bottom drawer.

Not sure which plastic catch you are referring to. There are no locks in the drawer. It slides on the rail and shuts against the face of the housing. On start (when ON is pressed) the lid seal decends from the top and locks the drawer so that water does not leak during operation.

Have you actually taken the drawer out from its rails? Are you please able to take a photo and attach to your comment.

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

  • cjsgraham Oct 10, 2010

    Hi,

    If you pull out the drawer and remove from rail, on the back wall next to the slide is a plastic u shaped piece on a spring, this catches the drawer when the drawer is pushed in, if the catch is pushed in before the drawer is fully engaged, it stops the drawer from going all the way in and thus does not allow the lid seal to descend from the top and lock the drawer. We think we may have solved the problem, which is the cabling was actually engaging the plastic spring catch and pushing it into it's lock position, but without the drawer, leaving the drawer partially open and thus not allowing the lid seal to come down and lock the drawer. Will advise if this does not solve issue. Thanks

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I just bought a house with a Kenmore stainless steel bottom drawer freezer. The freezer drawer does not close completely and large amounts of snow and ice accumulate inside. I have taken the drawer out,...


Check top see if the arms of the drawer are fully seated into the rails which support it and extend from inside the freezer when the drawer is opened. On most french door refrig's, there are hooks on the back side and tabs on the front side which are sometimes hard to get back in. Then the door is locked into the rail with a screw at the point where the rail meets the freezer door.

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What does the wrench and F1 mean when the dishwasher isn't working?


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

The water in the drawer is only the symptom of the underlying cause. You will need to be reasonably handy to undertake this operation.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod.

If in doubt get a service technician out. Also search up 'F1 fault' on this site for further assistance.

Jul 06, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher: dishwasher makes a beeping noise and displays F1 w...


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod. Mine broke anyway when I had reassembled the unit so I had to as a matter of course.
Hopefully this assists someone :)

May 18, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

My fisher and parkel dishwasher keeps displaying F1


The best thing to do is turn the power off ,remove the bottom drawer by pushing in the clips on side of the drawer ,just below the round plugs. The clips are attached to runners, push them back to release the drawer and ( after taking out the rack and spray arm) put the drawer on its r.h.side. Mop up the all water in the base, then remove the cover that goes over the back L.h. corner, this will expose the mains/flood switch board ( make sure you dry the roof of the drawer before you take the cover off , or water can drip onto the board .....not a good thing!!!yikes.gif).

To remove the cover, push in the clip in the middle front edge of the cover with a flat blade screwdriverand slide the cover foward a bit, then put the screwdriver under the clip and twist up, the cover should now pull off to the right. Spend a couple of minutes drying the board with a hair dryer and mop up any remaining water ( be careful of the board again). Refit the cover and switch back on ( you shouldn't need to force the cover on, just slide it on from right to left , but you may have to push down the cover just above the clip to get it to lock once it is located correctly). If it doesn't F1 again ,all good, if it does , remove cover and redry, and repeat until it doesn't.

To refit drawer, slide out L.h. rail and sit drawer on it, then lift right side of drawer and slide out other rail and sit other side down. If the rails don't want to slide foward and lock, lift the drawer at the front while sliding the rail fowarduntil the front edge of the rail is just at the clipping gap at the side of the drawer, then make sure the drawer is sitting down firmly on the rails and pull clips foward to lock. If the drawer has been clipped in correctly it will slide in and out nicely, if not , look at the back edge of the drawer when it is fully open to see where it is sitting too high and rectify by refitting the rail on the affected side/sides. By this point if any part of the bottom drawer was broken ,you would have seen it. Also check the top drawer by releasing it and pulling it foward,shine torch in and have a good look.

Hopefully it won't leak again unless ther is a faulty part not visible to the nakedshock.gif eye, check by running one drawer for a couple of minutes, stop the cycle and open the drawer and check the outsides for water ( don't be too worried if you see water in the bottom between the drawers as it will drip from the roof, unless the drain or fill hoses are split ) ,if ok, run the other drawer and check.

Remember, if you get to a point where you don't feel confident with what you doing or you think you might break something, leave it and call a professional to do the job, you may save money in the long run and if you going to expose wires or connections always switch off and unplug before removing the cover, you dont know whats underneathxbones.gif.

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1. Unplug machine.
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