Question about Whirlpool RF367 Electric Kitchen Range

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RF367LXKQ burner light always on

I had a stove top that burned out the element and connector for it. I replaced the heating element and connector. Everything is working now, but I still get a constant red light indicating that the stove element is turned on. I'm thinking this is an error indication from the previous problem but don't know how to clear it. Any ideas?

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Rob

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  • rcehandy May 30, 2008

    Thanks for the tip. I kinda figured with the arc that obviously happened at the element the switch may have been blown as well. But when everything worked (except the light) I got hopeful that it was still good!

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2 Answers

GOOD JOB TROUBLE SHOOTING ROB,THANKS-MIKE

Posted on May 30, 2008

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YOU HAVE A BAD STOVE SWITCH,TAKE THE TOP BACK PANEL OFF STOVE,HOW FIND OUT WHAT COLOR WIRES GO TO THE STOVE LIGHTS,NOW ONE SWITCH AT A TIME REMOVE THOSE WIRES CHECK TO SEE IF LIGHT GOES OUT NOT RECONNECT WIRES AND MOVE ON TO THE NEXT SWITCH UNTIL YOU FIND THE BAD ONE THE REPLACE IT,HOPE THIS HELPS-MIKE

Posted on May 30, 2008

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Why does the terminal block keep melting on my kenmore range left front burner.


Brother Jeff, this happens all the time because the connections are not perfect, causing arcing at the point around the connection. This arcing makes for excessive heat and melts the block. I replaced the connections on my Mothers stove top with crimped connectors and it lasted a lot longer. They didn't burn out any more, she just needs a new stove. So your best bet is to use crimp on connectors instead of the OEM block that's melting from a loos connection.

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I'm wondering if my Jenn-Air Model JER8885QCS needs a new probe or not. It's a...


As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

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1 Answer

I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.


Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

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You can unplug the unit and remove the thermostat. Take it to a parts supplier and get a new one and install it. Your problem will go away.

If you would like to see a wiring diagram...click on this link:

http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Springfield/316255301.pdf


If this was helpful, please select YES to the first two RATINGS questions. Good Luck!

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