My stuff was working fine for about 8 mo. Then I accidentaly broke the remote terminal off of the amp. So for a while i just had the remote wire TAPED to the gold that was still left. It worked like this for another 3-4 mo. then sometimes i would hit a bump and it would knock loose. I kept re-taping it for a while and it was still working like i had just gotten it. One day, after it falling off, i tried to hook it back up and now it just does the same thing. When i first touch the remote wire to the remote terminal, the LED turns green for a split second before dimming very low or going out completely. If i quickly remove it and put it back, it doesnt turn on again, but if i wait 2-3 seconds, it does the same thing. The first time this started happening the subs kicked on for a few seconds and then died. Ever since then it's been the same deal. The amp doesnt smell fried all the fuses(including the power fuse) are good.???????????
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Re: Amp and LED turn on for a split sec but the dies
Well you obviously aren't getting a signal to the amp telling to turn on. You need to take the amp to an audio shop who has a test bench and ask them to determine what other problems you might have. Quite honestly though there are better amps out there maybe you should just upgrade.
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You do not say if the amp is showing an indication of powering up or not. If it is getting power, the "power" LED should be lit.
There's also an inline main power fuse that should be located within a foot or two of the positive battery terminal. If you have checked it also and it's good, test for 12V+ at the amp power terminal. If you are getting power, then check that the remote turn-on lead is still functioning. It should also have 12V+ on it when the receiver/head unit is turned on.
If the amp is getting power, and a turn-on signal from the remote, it's most likely that the amp itself is defective.
Connect a DC voltmeter between the "remote" (+) terminal and the "ground" (-) terminal on the amp. When you turn on your Pioneer, you should read 12-14V. If you get voltage for a second and then it goes away, either the incorrect wire from the head unit is connected, or the head unit remote turn-on is defective. If the voltage remains on the terminal and the amp immediately turns back off, it's possible that the remote turn-on is not supplying adequate current for the amp. To determine if that is the case, run a separate wire from a positive (+) accessory terminal (cigarette lighter or fuse box) to the amp remote terminal. If the amp then turns on and stays on, you'll need to wire a relay into the turn-on wire. The wiring for such a relay is shown here. Most any 12V SPST or SPDT relay from an auto parts store or Radio Shack will work OK.
You need to confirm that the B+ voltage isn't dropping at the amp.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?
wouldn't be the first JL amp I saw fried...but there are some tests you can do. First of all, double check your fuses, they may appear to be fine, but sometimes they are blown even if you can't see it. Either blindly change them or test them for continuity with a digital multimeter. Also, disconnect the remote turnon and jump power directly over from the power wire to the remote terminal on the amp, if the amp powers on then you have to go double check your remote wire. Hope this helps.
Amplifier power problems are generally pretty easy to troubleshoot as long as you have access to a digital multimeter. You need to check the DC volts on the power terminal and on the remote terminal. For the amplifier to turn on, each terminal needs to show around 12 volts. From the sound of it, I suspect a problem with your main power wire, but the multimeter will make certain. If you show voltage on both terminals (with the black probe on the ground terminal) and the amp still doesn't turn on, then there's a defect in the amplifier.
Check the fuse on the amplifier; if it's good, then you need a multimeter or voltmeter for further testing. With the meter's black probe on your amp's ground terminal and the radio turned on, both the power and the remote terminals should test at about 12 volts. If neither terminal shows voltage, you may have a problem with your ground connection; if both do, there's a problem with the amp.