Question about Kenmore Microwave Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount. The fuse is usually located behind the control panel.If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount.
The fuse is usually located behind the control panel.If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Oct 22, 2007
SOURCE: Removing Old Built-In Microwave
You did not note your Make and Model. As there are many different types, all I can give you are basic directions.
First make sure the Power Cord is UN-PLUGGED from the wall.
1. Remove the Top Vent Grille Cover. There are screws holding this on, either Three you can see (one on each side and one in the center), or Open the Door and look for screws at the top of the Frame that go Up Into the grille.
2. Look in cabinet above unit for screws that hold unit up. Usually two (one on each side, front), can be more. Remove.
3. Look where Top Vent Grille Cover was removed. There should be a Long Screw or Screw-Type Lock at each( top) corner. These hold the unit tight on the Wall-Mount Plate. Remove. You should have HELP at this point as you will slide the unit forward until it comes clear of the Support Arms.
Posted on Feb 01, 2008
SOURCE: Replacing the fuse of a MCO160UW
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
Bottom line is... Home warranty companies will do anything possible to wriggle out of paying for something. (Especially if it's American Home Shield).
I'd suggest offering to fax / email photos and the front cover of your owners manual. Your model is 100% considered a built in unit and they are lying to you and trying to cheat you if they say otherwise.
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
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