Power protector light on sony xplode 1000 watt amp
A couple days ago i was driving down the road and my ground wire came out of my amp. when i got home, i put it back in and changed the ground to a spot underneath my back seat. (1997 chevy cavalier). Then i started my car and the green power protector light comes on. I moved the ground wire back to the place i had it grounded to before and the power protector light still comes on.
Re: power protector light on sony xplode 1000 watt amp
I bought a used sony xplode 1000w amp from a friend. i hooked it up to my two 12" kicker procomps. i have a 99 nissan frintier. i have my ground under my center console with all my other ground wires. a few days ago i noticed that the green power protecter light turned red after my power wire fuse blew. i replaced it and checked alll of my other fuses and rewired and checked all of my conections but my subs will not play at all. the amp has power but is not pushing my subs. my subs are rated 800 watts a piece. Y will they not play?
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You only gave us the model of the amp so I will make an assumption that your 12" subs are the Sony XS-GTX120LW. First, they cannot hold 1200 watts a piece. They are meant to be powered with 350 watts RMS. They will hold 1200 watts peak. That means that 1200 watts for a few seconds will be ok. Past that and kiss them goodbye!
Next you indicated that bridged the amp. Since the subs are both 4 ohm single voice coils did you wire them in series or parallel?
It sounds to me like you wired them in parallel resulting in the amp seeing a 2 ohm load. The amp you referenced is only stable when bridged at 4 ohms.
Has the amp begun working again once it cooled down? If not you could have fried the outputs by having the resistance too low.
Just to the left of the output (speaker) terminals, near the top of the amp, there's an LED marked "POWER/PROTECTOR". If the amp is connected properly and powered on, the LED is ON.
If the amp is being used for normal speakers, use a pair of RCA cables and connect the left/right channels to the appropriate inputs on the amp. The switch marked "LPF" should be "OFF".
If the amp is being used with the channels bridged for a subwoofer, use an RCA "Y" adapter and connect the single "Sub Out" preamp output from the head unit to both amp inputs. The switch marked "LPF" should be "ON" and the crossover set to about 80-100Hz.
Are you using the correct fuse? if so,
more then likely, you don't have a good ground. Try grounding to something else that has more direct connection to your frame. If that doesnt work, try getting larger power cables.
I had the same problem with my 2500w xplodes all I had to do was get a thicker cable for the ground and battery connection. What was happening, was it was needing more power then the wire and fuse could handle, so it would blow the fuse, since the higher you have it, the more power it needs to feed the watts.
I would try grounding it directly to the frame on a good part of the frame before spending another $70 on new power cables though.
Sounds like the power supply is shutting down because of it sensing a bad output channel. I'm assuming of course that you have checked all your battery, ground, and trigger wires to see if they are OK. Good luck.
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.