Question about Power Acoustik GOTHIC OV2-1600 Car Audio Amplifier

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I am trying to remove the ciurcit boards to repair a fried component and can not get the retainer clips off the side of the case. I need to know the trick.

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Locate rear heater core 2000 Chevy express 1500


remove the left rear quarter trim panel.
remove the auxilairy heater case from the vehicule
remove the retainers from the bottom of the heater case
remove the heater core from the case.

to remove the left rear quarter trim panel,

remove the passenger seats as needed
grasp and gently pull the body side rear trim panel in order to
disengage the retaining clips
remove the body side rear trim from the vehicule

Nov 21, 2014 | 2000 Chevrolet Express Cargo

1 Answer

Spark plug wiring diagram for a 2003 chevy malibu


SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT (ENGINE CONTROLS - 3.1L)

Removal Procedure


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  1. Turn OFF the ignition.
  2. Notice: Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn in order to release the boot. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do not pull on the spark plug wire or the wire could be damaged.
  3. Remove the spark plug wires 2, 4, and 6 from the engine left side spark plugs.
  4. Remove the spark plug wires from the retaining clips.

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  6. Remove the spark plug wires 1, 3, and 5 from the engine right side spark plugs.
  7. Remove the spark plug wires from the retaining clip.

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  9. Remove the spark plug wires from the ignition coils.
  10. Remove the spark plug wires from the engine.
  11. If you are replacing the spark plug wires, transfer any of the following components:
    • Spark plug wire conduit
    • Spark plug wire retaining clips

Installation Procedure


    162818.png
  1. Install the spark plug wires to the engine.
  2. Install the spark plug wires to the ignition coils.

  3. 211485.png
  4. Install the spark plug wires 1, 3, and 5 to the engine right side spark plugs.
  5. Install the spark plug wires to the retaining clip.

  6. 211481.png
  7. Install the spark plug wires 2, 4, and 6 to the engine left side spark plugs.
  8. Install the spark plug wires to the retaining clips.
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Aug 20, 2014 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

When turning on my heater I discovered only the defrost is working. No air is coming out on any other settings and when turning the setting all the way right(defrost mode) It seems to be on the setting but...


look under the left side of vehicle (RHD vehicles)right side of vehicle (LHD) in centre of car for heater cable going to heater case control levers on side of case can see it better if glove box removed. make sure cable is clipped in its retainer clip properly/ remove and adjust cable while control lever is over all the way and flap controls on case are fully over in that same direction as cable moved when putting control lever all the way over and clip into retainer. if cable doesnt move when moving control lever its probably come out of clip other end of cable in behind control lever or snapped the usual is glove box/heater case side first second is cable snapping behind control levers.

Feb 25, 2011 | 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

I have to replace the blower motor in a 99 astro van. Can it come out from the hood side or through the dash side?


1.Remove the air cleaner . CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
2.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3Remove the electrical connector.
4.Remove the coolant recovery and windshield washer fluid reservoir assembly.
5.Remove the screws that retain the acoustic cover. The acoustic cover is located in the blower motor area.
6.Cut the acoustic cover between the ribs. IMPORTANT: Retain this portion of the acoustic cover for reassembly.
7.Remove the cut piece of the acoustic cover from the blower motor.
8.Remove the cooling tube from the motor.
9.Remove the screws that retain the blower motor to the case.
10.Remove the blower motor from the vehicle.


Ensure that the following components have not been damaged or distorted:
The flange of the blower motor
The blower fan
Repair or replace any damaged or distorted components, as necessary.



INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Install the blower motor to the case. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
1.Install the screws that retain the blower motor to the case. Tighten Tighten the screws that retain the blower motor to 2 N.m (18 lb in) .
2.Install the cooling tube to the motor.
3.Install the screws that retain the acoustic cover to the case. Tighten Tighten the screws that retain the acoustic cover to the case to 2 N.m (18 lb in) .
4.Install the clips to the clip lands. The clips secure the acoustic covers together.
5.Install the coolant recovery and washer fluid reservoir assembly.
6.Install the electrical connectors. CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
7.Connect the negative battery cable. Ensure that the circuit operates properly.
8.Install the air cleaner.

Thank you for using Fixya and be safe

Oct 21, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

Need to remove emergency braek pedle on 1990 Oldsmobile Ciera. Can not see where bolts are that hold it on.


GM Celebrity/Century/Ciera/6000 1982-1996 Repair Guide
Cables - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1 and 2)
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Loosen the equalizer nut.
  3. Disengage the front cable from the connector and equalizer.
  4. Remove the clip at the frame.
  5. Remove the cable from the hanger.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
7f8aa75.jpg

Fig. 1: The parking brake control assembly is located under the dash on the drivers side
  1. To remove the driver's side sound insulator panel, unsecure the screws and nuts. Remove the panel.
  2. Remove the carpet finish molding, then lift the carpet.
  3. Remove the cable retaining clip at the lever assembly.
  4. Depress the retaining tangs and remove the cable and casing from the lever assembly.
  5. Remove the cable from the retaining clips.
  6. Remove the grommet retainer from the floor pan.
187b142.jpg

Fig. 2: Parking brake cable routing on vehicles without rear disc brakes
  1. Unseat the grommet and pull the cable through the floor pan.

To install:
  1. Insert the cable through the floor pan and grommet.
  2. Seat the grommet. Install the grommet retainer to the floor pan.
  3. Fasten the cable in the retaining clips.
  4. Connect the cable and casing to the lever assembly. Seat the retaining tangs.
  5. Install the cable retaining clip at the lever assembly.
  6. Place the carpet into position, then install the carpet finish molding.
  7. Install the driver's side sound insulator panel with the attaching screws and nuts.
  8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  9. Fasten the cable to the hanger.
  10. Install the clip to the frame.
  11. Engage the front cable to the equalizer and connector.
  12. Adjust the parking brake cable.
  13. Lower the vehicle.

Hope helps with this.

Jan 11, 2010 | Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Button problem


What those keys on the membrane pad have in common is pin 18 of the keypad matrix. See page 20 of the Service Manual Membrane Pad Continuity Checks. Do you know how to make continuity readings with an ohm meter? Follow the SM to power down the machine and remove the console to get to the console ribbon cable plugged into the Control Board. Very carefully remove the ribbon cable by squeezing the ribbon cable retainer plug ends to release the retaining plug which will then slide up the ribbon cable as in the pic's. Don't pull on the ribbon cable until you slide the retaining clip up the cable. I would check for any corrosion path issues between the pins on the ribbon cable and the mating socket on the Control Board. Follow the service manual for the continuity checks for the keys mentioned. The ribbon cable has black conductive pads on one side of the cable and you may need helper to make these measurements. With no keypad press you will read an open. Between a few of the keys I pressed for measurements I measured 30 ohms to 90 OHMS.
Do not make any measurements on the control board with the OHM meter. Here is a pic of the retraining clip that latches to the socket on the control board.
If the key press readings are similar to my readings for the effected keys I would try reseating the ribbon cable back in the socket on the control board then latch the retaining clip into the socket on the control board, power up the washer and give it a try. If the community checks on the keys in question read similar to mine not open under key press and the ribbon cable socket looks clean with no corrosion then I would suspect a Control Board issue.

If you feel uncomfortable with this I would call in a authorized repair service. Good Luck.

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Jun 26, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer fell off track, and i dont know how to open it up


1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.



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Mar 18, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Wash Tub broken


1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.


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Feb 17, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Headliner removal


this is not an easy repair w/o damaging the headliner. There is nothing up there except maybe a roof brace. Check the luggae rack again by trying to move all the peices. One must be loose.
there are 27 steps!
If equipped, remove the overhead console.
  1. Remove the screw and disconnect the electrical connectors
  2. If equipped, remove the electronic compass sensor.
  3. If equipped, disconnect the auto dimming interior mirror connector.
  4. Remove the interior/map reading lamp. For additional information, refer to Section 417-02 .
    • Upon installation, make sure the notch in the headliner aligns with the tab on the interior/map reading lamp bracket.
  5. Disconnect the roof opening panel electrical connector and the wire connector pin-type retainer.
  6. Remove the gimp around the roof opening panel.
    1. Remove the sun visors. For additional information, refer to Sun Visor in this section.
    1. Position aside the door opening weatherstrips
  7. NOTE: Installing the LH side sun visor clip will support front of headliner while working on headliner.
    Install the LH side sun visor retainer clip.
    • Loosely install the screw.
  • Disconnect the electrical connector and the wiring pin-type retainers on the A-pillar.
    1. Release the upper B-pillar trim panel clips and position aside the upper B-pillar trim panel.
    Release the C-pillar trim panel clips and position aside the C-pillar trim panel
    1. Remove the rear upper headliner trim panel.
    2. Remove the D-pillar trim panel.
    Vehicles with rear climate control
    1. Remove the rear auxiliary A/C controls.
      • Disconnect the electrical connectors
    2. Position aside the LH rear quarter trim panel.
    3. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
    4. Remove the pin-type retainers and the upper air duct.
      • Push down on the air duct, tilt the top outward and pull upward to remove the air duct
    5. Remove the lower air duct.
    6. Disconnect the electrical connector located at the C-pillar.
      • Release the wiring harness pin-type retainers.
    7. : To prevent damage to the coat hanger retainer, use a 3/16-inch flat-blade screwdriver for this step. Remove the third row coat hooks.
      • Open the access cover.
      • Insert a screwdriver into the coat hook slot and turn the screwdriver 90 degrees so that it engages in the plastic component slot. This will spread the steal attachment clip wings to allow the plastic component to disengage. The steal clip will stay engaged in the sheet metal.
    8. Remove the rear headliner pin-type retainer.
    9. NOTE: An assistance is required to help support the center of the headliner for the remaining steps.
      1. s2n~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent damage to the coat hanger retainer, use a 3/16-inch flat-blade screwdriver for this step.
        Remove the second row coat hooks.
        • Open the access cover.
        • Insert a screwdriver into the coat hook slot and turn the screwdriver 90 degrees so that it engages in the plastic component slot. This will spread the steal attachment clip wings to allow the plastic component to disengage. The steal clip will stay engaged in the sheet metal.
      2. Remove the LH side sun visor retainer clip.
        • Open the access cover and remove the screw.
      3. NOTE: Rear seats must be folded down and front seats reclined back for this step.
        Tilt the RH side of the headliner upward and remove the headliner from the rear of the vehicle.
    good luck

    Dec 14, 2008 | 2002 Ford Explorer

    1 Answer

    Repair cartridge in Moen Monticello single handle lavatory faucet


    After some additional experimenting, contrary to information I was previously able to gather, I discovered that the white plastic retainer doesn't (in this type of Moen faucet) actually screw off but rather is held in place by a spring clip inserted from the rear of the retainer (toward the wall side of the basing). Simply sticking a small screwdriver in the opening (approx. 45 degrees downward) and tipping the screwdriver toward the front of the faucet, snaps the spring clip out through the opening.
    The plastic retainer than lifts off. Note: the flat sides on the retainer suggest that a wrench will be needed but such is not the case.

    Nov 27, 2008 | Plumbing

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