Question about Legacy Jandy Lrz400ep Swimming Pool Spa Heater

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Hello, I have a LRZ 400 Nat w/electronic ignition that won't stay lit. The igniter glows and the gas valve clicks open and there is ignition. The heater runs for about 2 seconds. There are then several clicks, the gas valve closes and then shuts down. This will repeat until the unit locks out. There is 90GPM flow but just for grins I jumped the pressure switch with no success. I didn't have my meter with me so I was limited in what I could do. I believe it is either a faulty flame sensor or perhaps a defective ignition control. This heater replaced a Jandy millivolt heater of the same size. I'm sure gas piping/pressure is not the problem. I will however check the pressure on my next visit. Is there some way I can get a troubleshooting/repair manual for this (not the installation/operation manual)? The local rep. won't give me one since I'm not licensed in gas. I'm going to need to repair this thing myself once it's out of warranty (Feb. 2011). Thank you Wayne C

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  • Legacy Master
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Make sure still voltage from transformer check for possible loose connections in safety circuit

Posted on Sep 03, 2017

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john224
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SOURCE: Replaced control interface panel and

You'll need a manometer to check inlet and outlet gas pressure to confirm the valve is opening upon receiving voltage. Since you have replaced everything else you're likely to find that even though the 24V is present at the valve and the inlet pressure is fine you are not getting any manifold pressure - the valve is bad.

John

Posted on May 04, 2011

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Oven and broiler won't work surface burners ok


The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.

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Hot point range - model #RG85080PA1WH


Your oven igniter has gone bad, even though it still glows, they just wear out and don't open the gas valve to ignite the gas.

Here is the one for your model:
Part#WB13K21 (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=2494)
http://www.repairclinic.com/dbimages/00000578/00175428.jpgOven igniter assembly (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=2494)

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Will not stay on will shut off


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Jan 04, 2016 | Ovens

1 Answer

Gas dryer does not heat igniter glows red gas valve clicks but no flame


Hello,

Since the igniter glows i am wondering if within 1 minutes does it go off??or does the igniter just stay on??

If the igniter just stays on and doesnt go off the problem is going to the FLAME SENSOR

if the igniter goes off but no flame the problem will be the GAS VALVE COILS


GENE

Oct 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.


Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



Let me know,if needed further assistance.



Hope i helped you.



Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Aug 13, 2011 | Maytag Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

We have a 6 burner, nat gas cooktop....all unit light but the igniter clicking will not stop...unplugged it . question: all mechanics are closed is this safe gaswise?


What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame. Once the set temperature is achieved the control stops all power to the ignition circuit which causes the ignitor to dim and the oven gas valve to close, stopping any burner flame. Cycling on and off continues to maintain the specific temperature the control is set for.

Jan 09, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My Dryer won't heat


I'm assuming you're talking about the igniter. The igniter in these dryers is a glow bar type. Over a period of use, the igniter can become weak with age and no longer produce the required current to open the gas valve. If the gas valve does not open, the result is a glowing igniter with no ignition. The following link provides some good info on glow bar igniters:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

I know the link is for replacing an igniter in an oven, but the same type of igniter is used on gas dryers as well. I just wanted to give you information on the types of igniters and what current readings they should have.

Another common problem that affects ignition are the gas valve safety coils on the burner assembly going bad. There are usually two of them, and are usually sold as a set. It is recommended that you replace both of them at the same time. The symptoms I have seen more often when the coils go bad, is a dryer that will sometimes ignite and will not stay lit once it warms up. You may hear a rapid clicking or rattling noise associated with bad valves.

I hope this gives you some guidance. If you post back with a model number it would make it easier to determine how your dryer is configured, and assist in trying to locate any recommended parts.

Aug 26, 2008 | Maytag Dryers

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