Question about Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Millivolt Generator burnout
I doubt that it's the pilot generators themselves that have been failing They normally last for years through any temperatures that a pilot flame can produce. More likely, the gas valve is bad and is trying to draw more current than the generator can supply. You could verify that by connecting one of the "failed" pilot generators to a known good gas valve.
If the problem is consistent you could try measuring the resistances of the two electromagnets in the gas valve. If you compare your readings to those for any other gas valve of similar type (same brand or not), they should be in the same ball park. 12 ohms and 10 ohms are in the same ball park; 10 and 2.3 are not. If the problem is not consistent but intermittent, see if by any chance it (a.) gets better when the valve is stone cold and worse after it's been drawing current for a few minutes, or (b.) gets worse when you mechanically disturb the screws and terminals on the valve or the wires attached to them.
That "750 mv" is just a number. In practice, 400 mv is a pretty respectable output. Even 250 mv is usually enough to operate the electromagnets, provided it doesn't drop much lower than that and nothing else goes wrong.
When the pilot flame is too small, the adjustment on the gas control is rarely the problem (or the solution). Much more often, the orifice (located in the inlet of the pilot burner) is clogged and needs to be reamed out. A #79 drill bit is about right for the job, if you have the patience and dexterity for it.
Good luck, mrtrick2 or anyone following in his footsteps.
Posted on Feb 14, 2008
First thing check the feed hole through which the oil is delivered to the bar itself for debris,secondly the worm gear turning the pump shafft need only be slightly damaged to hamper full oil flow , next take the oil filler cap off, (with the bar ,chain ,bar plates, and oiler removed ) look where the oil pick up is in the case half and remove it and check for clogging and / or tears in the rubber hose,
if the cap is equipped with a breathing filler cap check make sure the cap breathes this will also hamper maximun oil flow capacity,
I stand by this , as I have dealt with product for close to 2 decades and know it intimately
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
I'm am guessing the bar is not a stock bar or was miss matched at purchase by the dealer.
Have dealer look up factory bar to see what was original and either go with that or if you already have it. ask for a new rim sprocket with 1 extra tooth. If you don't have a replacable sprocket then best bet would be to have chains custom build which usually is the same price, if they treat you right.
Remember the new sprocket MUST be the same pitch and width of your chain and bar and they do make a large and small ID also.
Last resort If not wanting to trash a new bar or change out sprocket, run a couple chains when they get loose have your dealer take out a link.
Also a stihl 20" can be a 72 drive link chain where a husky could be a 70 or other.
Everything must be matched, hard nose bar is exception.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
The drain on the a/c evaporator gets clogged, you have to raise the car on a lift, or get under the car, on the right side of the car under the fire wall you will see a black rubber hose ( about a 1/2 inch in size) pointing down, you will need to blow compressed air in the hose to clear the blockage.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
hi....Your micro chip is faulty check the voltage comming out of the
42nd leg it shuold be 13 volts dc if you are not getting that voltage
replace the microchip.and the eeprom IC....
thank u rate me!!
Posted on May 24, 2009
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