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I was defrosting meat in the microwave and my microwave just quit. The fuse box was checked. MY microwave is blank. What is the problem?

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If there is no action please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron.
So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in the cabin, if so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use an jet air to clean off.
Make sure that the program controller is working if not check power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the door switches, if contact is not through the microwave will not work.

Now keeping clear of the microwave, switch on, use a cup of water inside to test.
If you notice any sparks shut off as the magnetron or the main HT capacitor can be faulty. replace with same type.
If there is heating without any issues, you can use the microwave safely

Posted on Oct 09, 2010

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Kitchenaid builtin microwave oven # Kemc307KSS


I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.

As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html

Repair steps:
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).

After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps someone else!
sb

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