Question about Kenmore 23012 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore Washer Serial # 23012 Elite - Type 111 - Ser.# CM0807535 The washer cycles fine but mine has an annoying problem that has persisted for quite some time. The machine won't start when I pull the cycle selector unless I grab the right corner and pull the entire panel toward the front of the machine. It will begin to fill but if let go before a specified time, it stops. Pulling it again for the proper time starts it again and it will run fine. Any suggestions? The panel has to be held for about 3-5 seconds for the machine to continue filling. Cleaned and tightened ground wire to no avail.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series Model 110.20862990 Type 111

no the timer doesn't control the water fill the pressure switch does you have three possibility's either the pressure switch is malfunctioning or a water valve is hanging open or the pressure switch pressure hose is leaking or off the tub the pressure switch is connected to the knob that lets you select the water level in the tub if you back out the two screws on the front or back of the end caps depending on the model you can pull the control panel forward and tilt it back to access the pressure switch its gold in color and has a clear latex hose attached to it also take the hose loose and blow through it to make sure its clear with the washer empty of course lol if you need more info just reply to me be glad to help water can also leak out from the pressure switch hose if a mouse has chewed through it or its come loose from the tub

Posted on Mar 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: F2 error code on my Kenmore Elite HE3 washer

Had this problem on our Kenmore machine.

This is what done.

1. Unplug the washer

2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.

3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)

4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.

5. Clean the filter assembly.

6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)

7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp

9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.

8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.

9. Pull the pump forward.

10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.

11. Remove pump

12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.

13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.

14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

lsteward68
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: model 238322100 ser cm4768086 type 111

sounds like the drain pump is either froze or plugged. you can remove it if you need to. easy to fix. you can get it here. www.techray1.com click on the guru guy and use the scroll windows on the left to id the part needed this will also show how to open the back to get to the pump

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 500 top load washer starts to fill withwater then stops

This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a symptom of a lid switch malfunction.

The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

If the lid switch is found to be defective, it can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
applaincepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.

This is a very simple repair, but if you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore washer model 111 24622300 fills with water

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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