Question about Kenmore 23012 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
no the timer doesn't control the water fill the pressure switch does you have three possibility's either the pressure switch is malfunctioning or a water valve is hanging open or the pressure switch pressure hose is leaking or off the tub the pressure switch is connected to the knob that lets you select the water level in the tub if you back out the two screws on the front or back of the end caps depending on the model you can pull the control panel forward and tilt it back to access the pressure switch its gold in color and has a clear latex hose attached to it also take the hose loose and blow through it to make sure its clear with the washer empty of course lol if you need more info just reply to me be glad to help water can also leak out from the pressure switch hose if a mouse has chewed through it or its come loose from the tub
Posted on Mar 18, 2008
Had this problem on our Kenmore machine.
This is what done.
1. Unplug the washer
2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.
3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)
4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.
5. Clean the filter assembly.
6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)
7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp
9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.
8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.
9. Pull the pump forward.
10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.
11. Remove pump
12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.
13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.
14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
sounds like the drain pump is either froze or plugged. you can remove it if you need to. easy to fix. you can get it here. www.techray1.com click on the guru guy and use the scroll windows on the left to id the part needed this will also show how to open the back to get to the pump
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a symptom of a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
If the lid switch is found to be defective, it can be purchased at any of the following websites:
The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.
This is a very simple repair, but if you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
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