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Main wash pump motor will not operate, we have voltage going to motor and the windings test is; 5.7 ohms phase to neutral Model WT55

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Hi,
If you have voltage going to the motor for sure and the motor is not working then the motor is bad....I'm not sure of the exact ohm you should be getting. but to me that seems to be a bit high for a good motor...
If it was a dishwasher that I was working on, I would be changing out that motor...

heatman101

Posted on Oct 09, 2010

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What does LD code mean on my whirlpool cabrio washer mean?


Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?
Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation
Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. See Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Aug 20, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Lights 3, 4 and 8 come on and washer won't function


GWL11 (Phase 6 model)
(Lights 3.4.& 8 = 00110001) Phase 2 to 6 - Cold Valve Fault
The Motor Controller has measured a voltage from the valve diagnostic circuit that indicates the
cold valve is faulty. The most likely cause is that the valve harness has not been connected correctly. OR the 24 volt cold valve internal winding has open circuited. Check resistance of 64 ohms across terminals

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When starting a cycle, tub will fill properly, then when it is time for the wash cycle to begin, nothing happens. you can only hear a relay or other type switch click one time. after the one click, the...


The question is why the main motor is not running. Either there is an open contact in the timer, or the motor has a blown thermal protector or tripped internal breaker.

Troubleshooting starts at the timer. Most washing machines have a wiring diagram on a sheet of paper either folded up and stored inside the control panel or pasted on the back panel of the machine. Find the wires going from the timer to the motor. The motor has two windings, RUN and START. The RUN winding has one connection to neutral (WHT or WHT/BLK, meaning white or white with a black stripe) and the other to the timer. The START winding has both connections going to the timer. The timer connects it power one way for agitate and the other way for spin. (The direction of current through the START winding determines whether the motor will turn clockwise or counterclockwise.)

If you are comfortable working in a live 120 VAC circuit with a voltmeter, use the wire colors in the diagram to identify the motor terminals on the timer, set the timer to the agitate position (i. e., right after the machine is done filling and you hear the click), then check for voltage on the RUN and the START winding terminals. For the START winding, measure between the terminals going to the START.

If you don't want to probe a live circuit, you can use an ohmmeter to test for continuity between the hot terminal of the power cord and the motor terminals on the timer. Repeat for the neutral terminal. A failure at this point indicates either a timer problem or (unlikely since the timer runs) a bad contact on the water level switch.

If you get voltage to the motor on both windings, or you have continuity through the timer for both windings, then, with the machine unplugged, test for continuity through each motor winding at the timer. An open indicates a problem with the motor. Note: most machines use a capacitor in series with the START winding. In that case, measure continuity between the capacitor terminal going to the motor and the timer terminal going directly to the motor.

Apr 17, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The dl. Code comes on


DL = Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. See Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Dec 31, 2010 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

My Maytag Bravos quiet series 300 washing machine stopped. Won't drain. A message Ld shows. Not sure what to do


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.

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1 Answer

Ingersoll-Rand G25 generator had been operating normally. Output stopped today with generator running and 120/240V breaker closed. Continuity test shows a short between ground/neutral and A phase with...


A ground to neutral short should not stop the machine and may be how the breaker panel was wired. Single phase 240 volt power just has two hot lines and the neutral just center taps the transformer winding supplying the 240 volts. The twin breakers that supply this voltage, should both trip even if only one line has a short on it. Check the resistance of L1 and L2 lines to neutral that feed the motor with the breakers off. Each should read nearly equal resistance which usually is only a few ohms when correct. Make sure the motor turns freely by hand as a locked compressor can certainly pop the breakers. If the compressor appears locked, remove the cylinder head(s) and try to turn again. If still locked, one of the connecting rods may have broken in the crankcase. The other problem could be a broken valve assembly in a head. If the motor has a capacitor start and/or run capacitor, it can cause a breaker trip because the motor cannot start with a defective capacitor. Hope some of this helps!

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1 Answer

I keep getting an Ld code on my cabrio. It always has 14 minutes left. I even unplugged and replugged it, and it goes right back to the code. I had to have a new computer board put into it less than a year...


Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Jun 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Kenmore oasis he top loader shows LD error code. got back panel off, now what?


Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Jun 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

2 Answers

I am Replacing a pump motor and I'm not sure of the connections


high speed phase neutral should go to High speed {phase} neutral low speed {phase} should go to neutral .....Low speed and high speed {phase} need not be connected

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1 Answer

Kenmore Washer Intermittent Drain and/or Spin Problem


Well, this is a tricky one...but, it does sound like you've doe your homework when it comes to troubleshooting. If the motor coupling were bad the washer would not drain or spin at all. Here's my list of possibilities:

1. Gearcase (transmission) - of course, this is a possible suspect, but I usually have seen them get to a point where they do not spin at all, or make a lot of noise when doing so. A usual symptom is a light amber colored oil leaking from them on floor underneath the washer.

2. Clutch and Brake Assembly - Could be that the clutch is staying engaged causing the brakes to stick. This would definitely cause the drive motor to bing up in an attempt to turn the transmission. This could also be related to the overheating issue.

3. Drive Motor - Another possibility, but diagnostics procedures at t4 tests the motor operation during neutral drain sequence. Just to be sure, you can double check the motor windings by checking at the connector plugs at the control board. Unplug the washer and take resistance readings of the Low Medium and High Speed motor windings. Readings are as follows:

Winding Connector Plug Resistance Reading

Low P7-2 (WH/OR) to P9-2 (WH/BLK) 2.6 ohms
Medium P7-1 (OR) to P9-2 (WH/BLK) 1.5 ohms
High P7-2 (WH/VT) to P9-2 (WH/BLK) 2.3 ohms
Start @motor across RED/YELLOW 5.1 ohms

There is a possibility of a bad start winding. This could also cause the motor to strain on start and overheat.

4. Centrifugal Switch - the drive motor has a centrifugal motor start switch that engages when the motor reaches a certain rpm. If the switch were bad, however, I believe the motor would attempt to run when you pressed start, then shut off shortly thereafter. I don't think you would get a motor hum.

5. Start Capacitor - located in the start winding circuit. If the capacitor goes bad the there will not be voltage induces across the start winding to start the drive motor. You could have a capacitor that is starting to fail.

Am I confusing you yet? Look under the washer and see if there any signs of oil leakage from the transmission, if not double check the motor windings. Chances are the centrifugal switch is good, because you stated the motor is energized and it does pass diagnostics. If everything checks out, you may be able to narrow this down to the clutch, or start cap. (gearcase a maybe)

HINT: Here's a long shot for you...I have actually seen this happen before. Remove the agitator and inspect the wash tub THOROUGHLY, paying particular attention to all the small holes in the wash basket. I have seen a dry wall nail or screw get caught on one of these holes, stopping the inner basket from turning. The result is the same symptoms you have described.

I hope this answers some of your questions. I tried the best I can, but there is a degree of uncertainty because I can't actually SEE what is going on. I'm sorry if cannot narrow it down any better for you. Let me know what you decide and if you need further assistance, I'm available.

May 25, 2008 | Washing Machines

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