Question about Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

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I just replaced the thermal fuse as described by several of your people for a fan motor on a Kenmore dihumidifier 580.54701400. The unit ran fine for about an hour and then stopped with a burning smell and was a little hot on top. The smell was probably from the electrical tape I used on the coil and obviously the fuse didn't hold so now I'm wondering if it makes any sense to replace the motor for $39. This unit is from may 2004, so is this good money after bad? Will a new motor last or should I just chuck it and buy a new non-Kenmore/LG model. 6 years doesn't seem very long, I think my previous dihumidifier lasted twice that. Any advice would be helpful, Roger.

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Your call on the $39 replacement replacing the whole thing.
did the TCO you put int have the same specs (temperature) as the one you replaced? I've replaced a lot of these and they'll keep running.
The burning smell points to a failing coil which creates the heat which opens the TCO. you already know how to get the motor coil out so I think the $39 options is better.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Dehumidifier the fan will run for a while and then stops. I greased the fan motor it ran for a while and then stopped. My feeling is the fan motor bearing has loosened and as the motor...


does the motor feel extremely hot? how free are the bearings? Is there any squeaking when the fan turns? any resistance at all? If you have a problem with the bearings then change them that would cause the thermal overload to trip in the motor to unsure it doesn't burn out.

Aug 14, 2011 | Kenmore 54351 Dehumidifier

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Fan will not run


It's probably a common problem with these models: the fan motor causing a thermal cut off fuse to blow. I have the same problem. See this link on another site: http://forum.doityourself.com/humidifiers-dehumidifiers/177549-kenmore-dehumidifier-fan-stopped.html

Jun 23, 2010 | Kenmore 54351 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

The unit starts but the fan dont run


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Jan 03, 2010 | LG LHD45EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Have power and it runs. fan will not go on.


It made no sense to me that despite no visual issues, the fan motor is bad. So, with further research it turns out that the true culprit is the small thermistor/thermal fuse between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape on the fan motor. I heard about this bad (open/no continuity) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the orange wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working.
The part marked "JET 123 NM1 2A 130C" is a thermal fuse. The 130C is the temperature rating. When the motor get hot (130C / 265F) the fuse opens. The circuit is broken and the motor stops.

The motor is still good. The fuse is blown. It must be replaced to get the motor running again. You could bypass the fuse but then you invite a fire hazard.

A replacement fuse is available from Digi-Key. It is a Cantherm SDJ1 DF128S (128C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1133-ND

Part cost 98 cents

You might want to go with the next higher temp (141C):
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=317-1134-ND

Dec 25, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

2 Answers

Kenmore 54701 (70 pt) dehumidifier will not power on.


This unit has had a lot of problems. It has come up in other forums. The fan motor is thermally protected. Could be the printed circuit board is bad. Check out this forum:

http://forum.doityourself.com/humidifiers-dehumidifiers/177549-kenmore-dehumidifier-fan-stopped.html

May 04, 2009 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Kenmore Dehumidifier


I wonder if a little squirt of WD40 would go a long way in preventing the rust problem?

Sep 01, 2008 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Bad fan motor on DH504ELY5?


problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Aug 20, 2008 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Fan motor


Hi,
I can't imagine why a >thermal< fuse would be insulated as I thought they were designed to melt when the ambient temperature exceeded the stated value
There are some pics of typical thermal fuses here :-
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38&_nkw=thermal+fuse
I also have difficulty imagining why they would out such a component in a fan motor assembly - it's not the sort of thing that usually catches fire!
Equally, a non-thermal filament type fuse would normally be placed where it could be seen and replaced. I would expect it to be mounted on a pcb - soldered in, perhaps, but in an obvious place.
We are not allowed to exchange emails via fixya.com, but if you wanted to upload that schematic to senduit.com, and then post the download link here, perhaps I could take a look at the schematic myself.
Sorry this is taking so long to sort out!
Cheers, D.

If the fuse is not

Jul 15, 2008 | Maytag M7DH45B2A Dehumidifier

8 Answers

Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier


I'm working on mine right now as we speak with the same problem , it runs for 3-4 minutes and then drops out and what I think I have found is the compressor comes on but the fan that blows over the condensor/evaporator assemblies never turns on ! I tore the covers of mine and put a volt meter across the orange and black wires (with the unit on high ) , on the little white plug in the metal box on a pc board , that all the wires go into and with the comressor off just before it starts on power up I have 122vac (volts ac) and then the compressor kicks in and it drops to about 107 vac but no fan action so I'm getting on line to order a motor assembly Kenmore # 4681A20040K ! I just happened across this site so I hope It works for me and helps you !

Jun 30, 2008 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

7 Answers

Fan not working


You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.

Jan 18, 2008 | Kenmore 54701 Dehumidifier

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