Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
before you replace the heater
most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out.
(also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names)
These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Find your breaker box, flip the breaker that goes to your dryer off and then back on. If this does not fix it, I would call where I bought it and have them repair it under warranty. What they will find is either a bad thermal fuse and or thermal cut off or a bad element. The dryer has a year warranty on it and if the place where I bought it will not repair it for free, I would contact Roper or Whirlpool because Whirlpool is who makes Roper and let them know that the people refuse to repair it. I don't believe you will have a problem. Good luck
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
The problem is likely the dryer belt . Go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html there is a video that will show you how to replace it. It may be a different model but the process will be the same. You can also enter in your model # for diagrams and illustrations. Not all models are available There is also videos to show you how to disassemble your dryer.
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
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