Question about Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Hello My Kenmore 84152 dryer stopped making heat. I have varified the 2 thermo units each read 0 ohms the lower thermister on the blower houseing read 89.4k ohms and I can't for the life of me get to the heater coil leads to test. Any suggestions? Should the thermister read 89.4k. Thank you in advance. Donn Bauer

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Genius:

    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Master
  • 1,122 Answers

AS LONG AS YOU GET READING THE IS GOOD ,NO READING AND THE PART IS BAD,TRY TO GET ONE OF THE TERMINAL OFF THE HEATER COIL AND YOU STILL CAN TEST IT THAT WAY,MORE THEN LIKEY IT IS THE HEAT ELEMENT BECAUSE EVERTHING TEST GOOD RIGHT?HOPR THIS HELPS,THANKS-MIKE

Posted on May 31, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Push the start button and the dryer won't start. Panel show the cycle and after a few minutes it is at 1 minute and turns off


Hello Brad;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

There are several reasons your unit will not start.

1.) Air flow problem.
Poor air flow will keep your unit from starting. If you have had to run your clothes through the dryer twice to get them to dry, then your unit is plugged up with lint. With this model you have to pretty much disassemble the unit to clean. Two screws on the back of the top cover hold the cover on. Remove these screws and pull the top cover back about 1/2" and lift.

2.) Thermostat.
This component is mounted on the side of your heater box assembly. You need to remove this and with a multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms, if the Ohms reading is anything other than '0', them the thermostat is bad.
25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-0.jpg
PART NUMBER: DC96-00887A - Cost: $11.00
25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-3.jpg
PART NUMBER: DC47-00015A - Cost: $9.00

I do not know witch thermostat you have in your unit.

3.) A Second thermostat.

25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-8.jpg
PART NUMBER: DC47-00018A - Cost: $21.00

4.) Micro Switch - Located on motor drive pulley.
You need to Ohm this out as above, while holding the switch button in.

25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-15.jpg
PART NUMBER: 3405-001077 - Cost: $7.00

5.) Thermister.
This is located on the end of your blower wheel housing.
Also, you can Ohm this out. Should read '0'.
25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-24.jpg
PART NUMBER: DC32-00007A - Cost: $8.00

6.) Door Switch.
This too can be ohm out, should read '0'

25310837-hvg3snwqvesmyyt5sfu3t0jd-5-35.jpg
PART NUMBER: DC64-00828A - Cost: $17.00

I am glad it is not your control panel, which is no longer available.

Dec 07, 2014 | Samsung DV218AEW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag Dryer MED6600TQ0 F1 code


please follow this steps , use the multimer and fix it. Merry Christmas
The F1 code is a thermister error code. You need to use a meter and check the thermister, it is located on the blower housing. Just remove the lower panel to get at it. Unplug it and it should read around 10K ohms at room temp. If it is very low or does not read at all it needs to be replaced. If it is good you need to check the wiring from the thermister to the board to see if it is good. If it is and still displays the F1 code you need to replace the control board. That board is located on the left hand side of the unit when you have the top off you can see it on the left hand wall. Here is a link to the parts for your unit.
4e3ce95e-ab62-4e2a-be4c-98f265f4a65a.gif

Dec 18, 2013 | Maytag Bravos 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating problem with kenmore elite he4 electric dryer. drum turns, lent trap clean, heating element ohms ok, thermo coupler ohms ok, thermostat ohms ok, timer counting down. still no heat.


limit switch stuck open should be behind motor housing is a tight fit to get to but there are two there on the element one on vent tube the other is thermal switch recommend chang the two on the tube ck element limits should all read continuityif not reolace

Jan 26, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 110.96585200 No heat!


You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .

Nov 11, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110


If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Feb 04, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 84152 /94152


probably the heater

Jan 15, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer model 96273100 no heat.


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat



If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

Based on the model number you provided, I'm assuming this dryer can be accessed by removing the back panel.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back if you have any further questions, or need assistance in finding replacement parts.

May 08, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Not drying


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


Now, if your dryer keeps failing, it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation was. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this could be the cause of your dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little prevent maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.


Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.


PS This is not to assume you are abusing your appliance or are acting irresponsible. I just wanted to give you some useful tips, because some people just don't know.

Feb 14, 2008 | Kenmore 84152 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Stops after 20-30 seconds but only when using heat. Can immediately restart.


rbf, in looking Im not finding a 649732, but I do find a 649723. This dryer has a even heat board but also a thermistor. If you had to hold the start button for it to run, I would suspect the even heat board. That's not the case so Im suspecting a open or shorted thermistor. If you remove the lower panel it sits right behind the blower housing next to the thermal fuse. Should be black in color. Part number 3976615. The thermistor should ohm out at about 10k ohms plus or minus 3. When one of these thermistors fails usually you get the symtom your describing. Catriver.

Jun 23, 2007 | Kenmore 64952 Electric Dryer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Dryers Logo

Related Topics:

44 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3056 Answers

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...