Question about Danby DDW1899BLS Builtin Dishwasher

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Trying to open door for a new danby modell #ddw1899bls but small metal bracket prevents us from opening door - how do you remove bracket

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Just pull hard to open, the bracket is not a shipping bracket.

Posted on Jul 24, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I assume you have gone through instructions supplied fully. You will have to contact, Danby directly, there should be contact information in the instructions.

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I have the DZ-GX5020A DVD Cam....the disc eject door will not open.....I can hear it clicking trying to open, but no luck... everthing else works fine.......can you help me?


None of those options worked for me. I had to remove the single screw on top of the camera. Then slide the silver top panel forward to remove it. Then remove the dark panel where the screw was removed. Then you should see a small metal piece very close to the DVD door opening that is holding it closed. Slowly nudge it forward to unlatch the door. This allowed me to open the door to remove the DVD. Unfortunately I still have to do this every time to get the door open. I may try some lubricant on the metal to prevent sticking.

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I have a LS612 dishwasher and cannot open the door


If you remove the top lid, you will see a bracket in the middle of the door in the front. There will be a bracket which connects to the latch held on to the frame by a small nut. Undo that nut with a long nosed pliers and slide the door open. Remove the bracket then replace it back again.

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Re: danby upright freezer 20.1 cubic ft., model #


The lower hinge on each door may have a door closing cam. It raises the door up ¼ inch when opening and this assist in closing the door. If it’s wore out and doesn’t work the door may not seal and the gasket can be damaged. Watch the operation of the door to see if it rises up when opened.

Leave the door shut and let the magnetic gasket hold the door in place. Put something between the bottom of the door and the floor to hold it in case it slips.
Remove the bracket holding the pin and hinge assembly taking note of order of removal of parts. Slide new cams on. You probably need two.

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1 Answer

Refrigerator door not closing


look at bottom of door. there is a metal bracket called your door stopper. this only allows door to open so far. if pushed open to far then you bent this bracket. bent back to normal position. your door will close

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4 Answers

Toaster oven door will not close completely.


This problem is caused by screws being loose or dropping off a limiting bracket on the left side of the oven behind the left outer wall.  This bracket allows the front glass panel to remain OPEN, as required for broiling.
To correct this, first check to see that the two black screws facing forward, behind the left side of the front glass panel are tight.  If not, tighten firmly, but be careful not to overtighten.  If this fails to correct the problem, then follow this procedure.
Purchase 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Pan Head sheet metal screws at your favorite hardware store.  Cost About $1
  1. Unplug the oven and place on a flat work surface. Place a rubber mat or towel under the oven to prevent scratching.
  2. Remove 2- #4 x 1/4" black phillips flat head screws on the left side of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.  These are NOT the screws which hold the bracket, which face forward, but are adjacent to the bracket screws.  Be sure to indentify the proper location of all screws for replacement.
  3. Remove the 4- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws at the bottom of the left side of the oven.  Pry the metal tab of the back panel slightly off the bottom of the black side panel.
  4. Remove the 3- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws from the back panel which attaches to the left side black panel.
  5. Carefully pry the bottom of the left black side panel up from the bottom of the oven until it is parallel to the top of the oven.  It will seem hard to pry it upward as you are bending two SS tabs holding the black side panel to the SS top.  It will come up easily once you get it started.  When it is parallel to the top, slide the black side panel to the rear to remove it from the two SS tabs.
  6. You should now see the limiting bracket at the front of the oven's left side.  Remove the 2- black Phillips screws holding the bracket.
  7. Slip the limiting bracket from the oven.  Place on a wood block and with a chisel (or large common screw driver) and hammer, strike the screw holes on the bracket firmly once, so as to close the screw holes slightly.
  8. (OPTIONAL)  If available, using a rat tail file (or small flat file), at the crook of the spring lever, carefully increase the indent of the crook ever so slightly.  This will allow the front glass panel to stop more definitely at the open point.
  9. Remount the bracket using the 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Head sheet metal screws you bought. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.  Check the front glass panel movement. It should have a definite stop to allow the panel to stay open approximately 1/2" for broiling and should close fully, easily.
  10. Slide the left black side panel on to the SS tabs.
  11. Pry the left side black panel down until it meet the bottom plate.
  12. Replace the bottom screws.
  13. Replace the 2- #4 x 1/4" black Phillips flat head screws at the left side of the front of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.
  14. Replace the back panel screws.

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2 Answers

Kitchenaid oven door will not stay closed


I had the same problem on my parents Kitchenaid KEMS378GWH0 oven, the door would only close enough to keep the light on. They propped a chair against it to cook. My father replaced the hinges and it worked for about a week. He noticed that pulling outward on the door at the very bottom edge often allowed it to close enough to use.
After completely dismantling the oven to get access to the brackets that the hinges slide into, we found it was not broken. We decided to expand on the only near solution we had and find a way to make the bottom of the door 'push out'. Our solution was very simple. Remove the small metal plate that covers the door insulation. This revealed that the insulation is a braided hollow rope that is held in by small clips that push through holes in the front of the oven. We threaded some small metal rods about 3/8 inch in diameter into the hollow insulation pushed the clips back in to re-attach the insulation, replaced the metal cover plate.
It worked!

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