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Re: fridge freezer icing up
YOUR DEFROST TIMER COULD BE STUCK,FIND IT ON BACK OR FRONT OR INSIDE TURN SLOW CLOCKWISE TILL CLICK,IF FRIG. IS RUNNING IT SHOULD TURN OFF AND GO TO DEFROST,ALSO THE DEFROST HEATER IN FREEZER COULD BE BAD,OR THE TERMINATOR IN FREEZER COULD BE BAD OR THE FREEZER FAN MIGHT HAVE STOPPED,LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU KIND,THANKS-MIKE
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How to check
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips
into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your defrost drain line is frozen over.Remove everything from the fridge and turn it off for 24 hours with the doors standing open.
The drain line will thaw and you will return to normal operation.
You could also turn the fridge off, remove the freezer floor panel and back panel. Take a hair dryer and thaw out the drain hole. Takes about 2 hours.
You decide which procedure to use.
A couple of things to check-
- Is the condensor cooling fan running? This will be located to push air through the external cooling coils, wherever they are located.
- Does the auto-defrost timer work? It may have failed and stayed in a position that has left the heating elements (for defrosting) turned on.
- Does it seem to be running way too long and not turning off as it once did? This could indicate either a loss of coolant (would need recharge and leak detection) or the compressor is reaching its end of life. If the latter is the problem, expect a cost of $200-$400 US.
remove the back wall leave the unit to run half hour open and see if coil have frost all the way from the top of the coil to the bottom if the coil is full you have adefrost problem could be your timer defrost thermostart or heater
i recently found out that there is a component in a fidge called a control board this basically tells the fridge what to do i recently had a variety of problems with my candy F/F starting with the interior light not working it turned out to be the CB had this replaced and now working fine i have been told a CB (control board) can pack up from somethng as simple as a light bub blowing so possibly might be your solution all the best
Option 1 defrost fridge manually by switching off power for 24 hours, allowing built up ice & frost to melt.
Option 2 Switch off mains power and using a hair drier blow hot air into the freezer supply vents. This shuold shift the ice in a couple of hours
Candy frost free freezers have a 'self defrost' mechanism to remove excess ice build up. What happens is the ice gets packed around the heat exchanger in the back of the freezer and it can't self defrost. This is easy to fix but will require the fridge to be left switched off with the door open for a couple of days so all the ice can melt. Make sure you left the appliance off for as long as you can as if there is any ice left the problem will just come back.