It runs, but there is no heat, the air is cold
I checked the heating element. its ok. I found on of the thermostats (the one that is on heating element)I unhooked it. dryer still did not get hot. I am not sure where the other thermostat is. i found what I thought was the thermostat on the blower and unhooked it but the dryer still did not get hot. not sure it is the thermostat anyway.
I am having the same problem. Whirlpool dryer is working but not heating. I have checked the heating element, it's fine, the thermal fuse, it's good. I replaced one of the thermostats (the one that is next to the thermal fuse, not the element) and the other thermostat is fine. My dryer does still not heat. I do not understand this...
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: It runs, but no heat
I dont believe at this time its anything mentioned at top most people dont realize that dryers are split cuircuts
is this a 220 setup
and if its a 220
the cuircuit breaker for this is set by 110 each one for the heating element one 110 for the guages and motor
goto circuit breaker and flip the breakers this should return your dryer working ability
other thing is are the guages working properly
dryer doesnt have to run to test guages turn to the highest setting and let them run completly threw cycle if they stop on a particular setting for a long length of period then the guages are bad
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The problem is most likely the over heating sensor thermostat located directly under the heating elements - The reason the over-heat safety thermostat sensor is tripping the warning buzzer is because either the cool air fan intake is obstructed with dust / dirt, or the fan motor stopped rotating, or the over-heating condition thermostat is defective, or over sensitive - Usually when the cool air intake is obstructed for any reason, the heating elements will glow brighter, and hotter without good air flow, and the elements may start to bow downwards closer to the over-heating safety thermostat - However, if the safety thermostat is defective, it can trigger the warning buzzer even though there may not be an over-heating condition / event present - The buzzer warning going off prematurely also occurred with my Holmes space heater - I checked the air flow first, and then the appliance tip-over switch second - Both were found functioning properly - It wasn't until I replaced the safety over-heating thermostat, did the buzzer stop going off moments after I plugged the space heater in an outlet.
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
To get proper heat, keep your temp setting at 30+ degreeand also mode in "heat "position. If still no heat, check your heating sensorfor closed circuit by an OHMs metre.It it's with RV, check power to RV.Ifit's with heating element check power to element. If power is there but stillno heat means element defective. Replace new heating element. Thanks.
first make sure you have 240volts at the plug,if not check homes fuses or breaker to make sure they're good and/or not tripped,then remove either the top and front cover,or if the heating element is accessable from the rear do that,if the elements ok then check the hi limit thermostat on the element housing,then check the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat/switch on the blower housing,if any of these open you wont get heat
The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.
All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).
A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.
Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.
Check the O/B setting on the thermostat and equipment to insure the reversing valve is energized during the proper heat/ cool cycle. Also check the thermostat wireing to insure electric heat element is set up.
I work in a motel and replace these heaters quite often, Cadet C202, a 240v 2000 watt wall heater. Most of the time when they blow cold air it's because the heating element is broken. First turn off the circuit breaker, then remove the heater from the wall. If you take out three screws, slide the top cover off, bend the two little tabs and take out the heating element, you can examine it and usually you will find a place where it is broken, it's like a big spring. Replacement elements can be ordered from online stores such as reliableparts.com Be very careful, 240 VAC is very dangerous! <!-- from fixya rte -->