When started my dishwasher fills and washed but will not cycle out of wash. If I hit the power off button it will drain. A repairman said it might be because the water temp is to low so I turned my water heater up to max (almost steam) but it did not help. Any suggestions.
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Most likely issue here is that the door is not sealing properly or the sensor on the door is not working, so it can fill up much as your washing machine does but just as the washer won't spin without the door closed neither will the dish washer. An easy way to check this is to let it fill and then lean or push against the door some and see if it starts, if so then the issue is the isn't sealing properly.
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating. --------- The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed .You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution
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Bosch dishwashers have a seperate pump for washing and another for draining. Try making it fill more than once. There is usually a timed fill and the float stops it before it overfills It also might prevent it from washing without enouth water Try defeating the door switch and play with the float during fill. There may be a sensor that won't let it go into wash. Be prepared to get a little wet if it should start up suddenly. A slightly safer way is to fill it with the sprayer from the sink. and see if it will go into wash.
I just read this for the same problem: push sanitize, then heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, cancel, then open and close the door. It worked. The dishwasher is running correctly even as I type this.
I would bet that it is the timer switch assy.
Motor runs ? yes
drain tube clear ? yes
If there is no drain valve to deal with, the problem must be the contacts during the timer cycle, since the main obviously works or you wouldn't be able to wash anything.
you need a new timer switch assy.