Question about Samsung 225BW Monitor

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Try to figure out how to take the monitor apart to check caps. I took three screws out of the bottom but it did not come apart. What do I need to do?

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You start cracking it open at the bottom edge of the monitor using thin flat balde screw driver and then work your way around and watch out for any cable attached the front panel switch assembly, it can be real difficult sometime. You can also look at YOUTUBE for 'how to open LCD monitor'. It takes experience to figure out.

Basic LCD monitor troubleshooting guide:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting

Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Kinston/5995552584.pdf

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Just repaired mine. Had a couple of bad caps on the power board.
For disassembly, on the back the two hinge covers will slide off sideways, exposing 4 screws holding the hinge assembly to the monitor. remove that piece and you can get to all three screws holding the plastic monitor shell together. After those three screws are removed, its just snapped together so use a small screwdriver or blade to pry apart. I started at the button area on the bottom and worked up from there. Good Luck.

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There are some brands of caps that will blown with no visible damage, also some will blown out the bottom so you can't see the damage. I would replace the caps in the power supply all except for the 1 very big cap on the input side. I would be that this fixes the problem you are having.

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Just another voice to say that the solution provided here by others does indeed work.

Had same symptoms: screen comes on for about a second, a metallic popping sound occurs, screen shuts off for about a second, repeat. Problem occurs even if monitor is not plugged into computer (thus isolating it to monitor). Monitor purchased from Costco approximately two years ago.

Found 3 suitable 470uF 35V capacitors at the local Radio Shack for a little over $4 (more pricy than online, but no shipping cost, so it's a wash) Entire repair took less than 30 minutes.

The repair itself is already covered pretty well by others here, so I'll just add some disassembly instructions:

Set the monitor face down on a towel to protect screen. Remove 4 Phillips screws securing base to back of monitor, set base aside. Remove 3 Phillips screws from bottom edge of monitor cover. With flat screwdriver carefully pry along the other 3 edges to disengage the catches (about 3 per edge). Remove back cover. Identify the raised metal shroud containing the power supply module at center. Carefully lift one side of each piece of foil tape to expose connectors (for the short pieces of tape it's easier to remove the side that's laying flat, for the long piece at the top of the monitor, it's easier to remove the side that's vertical on the power module). Disconnect all cables, noting how to replace them later. Remove 4 Phillips screws securing the power module. Remove the power module and set the rest of the monitor aside. Flip the power module over, orient it such that the plastic covering is on the left (done only so that these instructions make sense). Carefully pull up the plastic cover from the right circuit board near the center of the power module, you can leave it attached to the metal shroud at the left side (it is difficult to remove from the metal without damaging it). Gently bend (without crimping) the plastic back and out of the way and remove the 4 Phillips screws securing the left circuit board (the one with the power connector). You will need a small "jeweler's" screwdriver for one of the screws - make note where that screw goes (top right of circuit board, or top center of overall module, when oriented as I did). Slightly tilt the left side of the circuit board up, and slide the circuit board out and to the left, over the bent back plastic, disengaging a connector from the neighboring board.

Then perform repair, and reassemble in reverse order.

Thanks to all who posted the original solution!!

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