Question about Canon EOS Rebel K2 35mm SLR Camera

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New response to night shots

Yes yes that is all very helpful and gives me more knowledge which i appriciate greatlty.  now when i set my camera to av mode i have choices of numbers from 5.6 thru 32.  im not sure which one would work out best nor do i excatly know what those numbers are.  i take it their the aparcture setting.  then when i have those next to that is my shutter speed which i think is only going to 15.  now that i understand the process i just cant figure out this camera and what should be what. any more help would be great!

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Hey matty reps,
The numbers you are seeing represent the size of the aperture. The smaller the number you set the camera to the larger the opening in the lens that lets light thru, and the larger the number is the smaller the opening is. The closer you are to your subject the smaller aperture you can use (larger#'s) because you will need less light from the flash to reach the sensor, and the farther away you are from your subject the larger the aperture (smaller#'s) you will need to use. I hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

Posted on May 30, 2008

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How do I set the settings to take a night moon shot?


Assuming you mean pictures of the moon itself and not a night shot with the moon in it, set your camera to the manual exposure mode and ignore the light meter.

There's an old rule-of-thumb called the "Sunny Sixteen Rule." This states that the proper exposure under a midday sun is an aperture of f/16 and a shutter speed of 1 over the ISO. For example with an ISO 200 film or a digital sensor set at ISO 200 the proper exposure is f/16 and 1/200 second.

What does this have to do with night shots of the moon? Well, the moon is simply a large piece of rock under a cloudless midday sun. Thus the Sunny Sixteen Rule gives you a starting point for the exposure. You can then refine it by reviewing the picture on the LCD and looking at the histogram. The sky will go completely black and you won't see any stars, but you should be able to see at least some of the features of the lunar landscape.

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I want to click pics at night but even with its flash on .... pic quality is nt so good ................ is there any night mode function on Canon PowerShot SX130 IS camera ......if yes please tell me...


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Note that even a small hand shake will spoil the subject. Use a tripod for night shotting with flash

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Hello, thanks for the compliments!

First, yes, the Digital Rebel series of cameras (my first DSLR was the first Digital Rebel, the 300D model) have a small sensor than a "full frame" sensor, which results in a "multiplicationfactor" or "crop factor" of .6. This is good for telephoto shots (yourtelephoto lens ends up acting like a "longer" and more expensive lens) but bad for wideangle shots.

For Macro, you need very bright light to have enough light to use a small fstop for needed DoF because even at the smallest fstop (largest number) your DoF will still be very small. This typically means you need to use a strobe. The strobe will help freeze the image so you can still shoot hand-held. For hand-held use look for a "ring strobe" that fits around your lens and lights the item in front of your lens.

Focusing is a very tricky matter when you are shooting in macro. Usually you go to manual focus, set the lens to manually focus at either infinity or the closest distance, then you "focus" using the zoom, rather than the focus ring.

For night shots, you need to change to manual exposure and adjust to get the exposure you desire. Your camera's light meter doesn't know how bright or dark the thing you are viewing is - to the light meter everything you point it at is supposed to be exposed to medium gray - an average value. It can't know that you want a dark shot to stay dark.

Here's how I do it. First, I bump up the ISO so I can take a fast shot, and I set the camera to AV mode. Then I set the lens to the widest aperture (smallest number). I let the camera set the shutter speed as I take this test shot, and look at the exposure. Then I determine if I want the shot darker and if so how much. Now I switch to manual mode - same aperture and shutter as the previous shot, and adjust the shutter speed faster to produce a darker image. When I have the right settings, then I adjust the ISO and as I adjust the ISO I have to compensate with the shutter. E.g. if I have a good exposure at ISO 1600 @ f2.8 @ 1/30, to drop to ISO 100 means I have to slow the shutter to 1/2 second. Now, I usually also want a smaller aperture (larger number). To go from ISO 100 @ f2/8 @ 1/2 second to f/16 is 6 stops, which takes the time needed from 1/2 second to 15 seconds. Obviously this means the camera needs to be on a tripod.

I can help more if you can give me a link to some of the photos you have taken so far so I can see what you are shooting, and make suggestions for how I would approach the same subject and situation.

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First of all, shooting sports in manual is about the most difficult thing you could ever choose to do. I use the Av (Aperture Priority) and let the camera set the shutter speed. Just set your aperture wide open and fire away. That way, you're not constantly fighting with settings missing great shots. Also, in manual, BULB is simply one of the settings and can't be turned off. It can only be 'not selected'.

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1 Answer

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Other thing you might try is format the memory card using camera, camera has card format functionality and it does also improve the performance of the camera.

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1 Answer

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What are the normal settings for night shots on oly C3030Z. Shall I use flash when I shot on nights? If I set the aperture on F2.8 and the shutter from 2 to 16 sec. I got a lot of pixels on the...


There are ways to deal with this problem. As others have said, your camera appears to be normal. Consider using "dark frame subtraction" to successfully employ long shutter speeds. The technique involves capturing two images using the same exposure time and the same camera temperature. One of the images is your picture. The other (the "dark image") is captured with the lens cap on, or other suitable way to block all light. Then using one of the more sophisticated photo editing applications, "subtract" the "dark image" from your picture. This technique will dramatically reduce the noise, because moist of the noise is deterministic, but is highly dependent on shutter speed and on CCD temperature. Of course you can use flash at night, but only for subjects that are close enough to the camera - not for a subject such as your stjernehimmel 2 photo

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