My scope has been unused for 3 years now. When I fired it up everything appears to be just fine but then it begins setup anytime it wants and turns all the way to the stops. It then tries to bypass the stops so I immediately shut it down. I have attempted to fix by resetting but it still doesn't help. It scares me that it will strip gears so I need some assistance. Meade has no suggestions. How can I find directions? Would reloading ASU II help? It now has 3.0i....
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Re: LX200 GPS problem
I would suspect the Autostar II controller - the symptom seems like a 'stuck' key that tells the telescope to slew in one direction. The controller can be opened with no problems - just be sure not to lose and parts by doing it inside. The keys are molded rubber that press to the curcuit board to make contact. Clean carefully with a dry lint-free cloth and re-assemble. Note: the red filter on the top end falls out when the case is opened, so make sure it is in place when closing. When testing, make sure the axis clamps are loose so the gears can free-wheel without causing damage. Also - do not leave batteries in the telescope in not being used - the last thing you need is a leak.
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Once the scope has taken a GPS fix and knows TIME, and SITE, and you do a two star alignment your alignment stars overide any automatic alignment issues.
You could turn off the GPS put in Time, Date, and Site, do a two star alignment and everything would be fine. Centering the alignment stars is the "trick". Apparently the scope also finds NORTH OK, or the alignment stars would be way off. Since you pre-level the tripod already the software can FAIL on "tilt" and you still get good gotos.
I would not worry about it, especially since your gotos seem perfectly fine.
You have a standard lx200 problem. If you transported your scope a lot with the drives "locked" it damages the RA and DEC drives. If you keep using it, the motors burn out and start drawing too much current. This sometimes blows the motor driver chips on the motherboard which are getting very rare.
The burned out tantalum caps can be replaced with better aluminum electrolytics very cheaply. If the ones in your Autostar burned out, they often burn up the ribbon cable. Also, they often take out U11, a 74LS14 chip on the motherboard. Also a cheap repair. You should take the Autostar apart. If they are burned up, it will be obvious. If your ribbon cable survived, you should replace the caps with aluminum electrolytics. I believe they are 6.8 uf.
So, if you can work an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the two drive motors with the plugs unplugged. If it is about 14 ohms they are ok. If they are about 3 or 4 ohms, they are toast. Check the worm drives for end play. If there is just a little, you can adjust them. The battery jack on the control panel often breaks the solder joints on the board, causing one of the problems you describe. You can check that and replace/resolder as necessary. The on/off switch often fails and gets intermittent. These are also cheap and can be replaced. I don't repair these for a living but I repair a few of them for friends in the club. These are pretty common problems.
The problem is the addition of the 80mm telescope to the assembly. The telescope is now out of balance, and places extra weight off-center as the position chages. Too great an off-balance will cause the main gears to 'jump' the worm teeth. The solution is to restore balance by adding counter weights as needed. Loosten the axis locks (carefully) and see which direction it wants to move. To balance my LX, I used a small bag with lead buckshot to determine how much weight was needed and where to achieve balance. Then I added fixed weights to the mount. Once this is done, the scope should track correctly.scopestuff.com has balance kits at reasonable prices.