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I need 2 small burners for a 41 or 42 year old whirlpool electric store. i don't have the instruction book to tell me the #. can you help me rosalie withey 269-637 4495 or posey@i2k.com

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TRY EBAY,I GET ALOT OF PARTS JUST BY USING NAME BRAND AND PART I NEED,THANKS-MIKE

Posted on May 29, 2008

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My 30 year old Whirlpool electric stove burners are heating inconsistently, especially the right front. If turned on medium for a while, it will turn red hot. It happens even faster when another burner...


Each burner has its own switch. I suspect your switch on that burner is bad or going bad. Conracts probably burring up from the constant arcing associated with closing and opening. Here is how it works:


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Heating elements on whirlpool electric range do not work


They may just be loose,try push the heating element in to socket,Or remove and check ends,may need cleaning to get good connection.

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my whirlpool electric stove top two big buner is not working

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I have a 1960's 40" GE double oven range. Both large burners quit working (the ends of the elements are melted in the sockets) the clock and the accessory plug as well. All of this happened at one time....


No the switches need replacing. This training video shows how those switches work and will give you a better idea of what to do: HERE

Since you might have 2 switches gone bad and the originals will not be available the new parts even though ordered from GE will be generic in nature, (so you might want to find the old 5500-200 robertshaw control (that is what GE uses shhh don't tell nobody) When using the generic switches pay attention to the wiring. L1 and L2 won't be in the same location and when connected both switches will blow(not good) The old switch has 2 wires to burner (H1 and H2) and two wires from source (L1 and L2) and P for pilot to turn on a light on the top telling burners is on. Get em right so your honey will think you is a brainiac! LOL

Jan 15, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

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Wiring hookup for a replacement part


hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

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2 Answers

Need wiring solution for replacement part


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



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1 Answer

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The gas line was stuck clean nozzle w/ small neddle and clean burner set the edge of the burner in order complete gas will be burn.

Jan 04, 2008 | Jenn-Air SCE30600 Slide-In Electric...

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