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Z380 zero turn. The blades kept disengaging and now the mower wont start at all?

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: I have a riding mower

Check the wiring around the deck, as all ride on mowers have a cutout system wired to the deck, seat, & also on the rear basket.
One of these wires must be getting earthed to ground causing the engine to shut down.
In most cases I see a lot of mowers coming in with these wires removed . This is not good practice as you could get your toenails trimmed when getting off the mower. So we always replace them !

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman 42" mower deck won't disengage

Try pulling on the cable coming down to deck. This cable might be your problem. Also check that the spring on the end of this cable is present and functional.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Knocking in mower deck or belt clutch when engaging blades, motor bogs / slows down


Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My cub cadet zero turn mower won't engage the

My cub cadet ZTR M60, under the mower in the rear is 2 wires going to the electric clutch my wire fell and the belt cut one of them. I spliced it and it was good to go. Signed:Acorn tractor

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: have a cub zero turn 52 inch cut the blades wont

sounds like one of three possible problems - there are safety switches that prevent engagement of the blades,,,,,two - the electric switch which engages the electric clutch blade pulley is bad....or three - the electric clutch blade pulley assembly is bad.....first.....make sure all ur connections are tight to the safety switches and electric clutchblade pulley.....then, if your able to read and follow a wiring diagram, get the wiring diagram for your tractor and a 12 volt probe light (with probe point end) with a ground lead....first, ground the clamp end to the frame and probe at the electric pulley clutch plug to see if power is getting there...if not...follow the wiring diagram to the next switch location the power lead comes from....if one side of the swtich shows power and the other side doesn't with the switch in the correct run position....then the switch or connection is bad.....if it probes okay...go to the next switch....follow this logic from both sides of the from the electric pulley blade clutch plug until you isolate the switch or plug problem....if everythin tested is good....then it's the electric clutch pulley assembly that need replacing.....hope this helps.....

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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