All of the ater lines are tightly connected to the duel solenoid The leads to the water line side are alove and I get cold water in the front. The leads to the other solenoid have no power, I presume to the icemaker. After standing for 10-15 minutes, water leaks from under the refreg. Where is that coming from and how can it be fixed? Michael Bean

I believe you have a different problem Any air in the water line will purge itself once water is flowing. Look to see if you have water to solenoid on back bottom of refrigerator, the go the other side and see if you have water there.. If you have just installed line and filter you can disconnect the line and run water thru line and filter

The inlet water valve for the cold water has three connections to it. There are a total of 5 hoses that put water in the machine. These are on the cold water side. Check them for leaks, cracks and tight connections.

There is a screen in the water inlet valve that gets clogged. Turn off both hot and cold water, take off the cold water line and clean screen out. If screen is clean, set to cold water wash and turn on the washer. You should hear the solenoid hum. If you hum, check the leads to the cold water solenoid. With the washer set on cold and turned on you should read 110VAC across the wires. If you have voltage the solenoid is bad. If no voltage, broken wire or timer problem.

Check the solenoid for the cold water. you can reverse the lines to see if cold water comes out on hot setting. solenoid is where the water lines connect to the machine.

Are you meaning the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve??????

If yes .... you need to know if your W/P Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer really has a bad Water Inlet Solenoid Valve for the Hot and Cold water. This valve is where the Hot and Cold water hoses connect to the rear of your washer on the upper top left side in the rear as you are facing the washer. In my opinion it is highly unlikely that your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is bad....but it is possible. Sometimes the filter screen in the inlet(s) of the Hot & Cold water valve can be stopped up with dirt, sediments, etc. If you turn off the water faucets and remove the Hot & Cold water hoses from the washing machine... you will be able to see the screens...if they are stopped up you can remove them with a small screw driver and clean them and reinstall them.

Hook up your hoses and turn on your water supply Hot and Cold faucets.

Here is a quick test procedure that you can do to verify the operation of the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve.

Verify that your water hoses are hooked up and the water faucets (Hot & Cold) are turned on.

Unplug the washer's 120Volt AC power supply cord from the electrical plug on the wall.

(1) Remove the top cover...There will be three screws on rear area of the cover: Left - Middle -Right.
(2) Once the top cover is removed...you will be able to see the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve...just follow the Hot & Cold water hoses from the wall to your washer. Usually the water inlet solenoid has a blue plastic housing assembly with (2) separate push-on or pull-off quick disconnect electrical connectors. One connector pair provides 120volt AC to the Hot water solenoid and the other connector pair provides the 120volt AC to the Cold water solenoid.
(3) Remove the push on or pull off quick disconnect electrical connector to one of the water inlet solenoids..It does not matter which one at this point in time.
(4) You will need an electrical 120v AC Test Cord. You can make this from an old lamp AC power cord or and old 120v AC Extension Cord. You will need two alligator test jumpers or leads (Radio Shack has them). The end of the test cord that plugs into wall is not to be modified. The other end of the test cord will have to be modified in order to conduct this testing. Strip back the insulation to reveal the two leads that will carry the 120v AC power. You should have one black lead (120v AC HOT) and one white lead (120v AC Neutral). Connect (1) alligator test lead to the black lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary and connect (1) alligator test lead to the white lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary You now have your 120v AC Test Cord ready. If you have a VOM test meter..you can connect the VOM meter to the two remaining alligator test leads. Have your VOM test meter set for AC Volts and on a scale that will measure 120v AC. Plug in your test cord to the 120V AC wall power. If everything is OK your meter should read approximately 120 Volts AC.

(5) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from the wall power.

(6) Connect your 120v AC Test Cord to your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve electrical terminals.
See Step (3).

(7) Plug your 120v AC Test Cord into wall power. If the water solenoid valve is good you should hear water surging thru the water solenoid valve. If you do not hear the water running thru the valve you can verify if the 120v AC is getting to the valve with your VOM. It should read 120v AC. If it does read 120Volts AC at the terminals of the valve and you do not hear the water then the valve is probably defective: Either stuck shut and won't open or the solenoid coil is open (Bad).

(8) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from wall power.

(9) Disconnect your (2) alligator test leads from the solenoid valve and re-install the electrical push on connectors that was disconnected in Step (3)

(10) You can now repeat this test on the other side of the Water Solenoid Valve (See Step 3).

(11) If both sides of the Water Solenoid Valve check out good...then your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good. If it does not check out then replace it.

(12) If your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good...then ....unfortunately, there is a good chance that the CCU module is bad. The CCU module is in effect a computer control unit and controls the overall operation of the washer. The CCU module will cost approximately $150.00

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/henry_239f63a136de60f0

When you push in the water dispenser do you hear two clicks? The first click is the switch in the front. The second click is the solenoid in the back. The solenoid has to open to let water through. If you don't hear that second click then it is most likely the solenoid.
If you remove the grill below the fridge doors you will find a plastic line and a coupling. disconnect the coupling. Push the dispenser arm in and see if water comes out. If it does then you have a frozen water line in the freezer door. Most likely it is frozen right below the ice cube dispenser door as it sometimes leaks out cold air if it does not shut properly. You can use a heat gun or hair dryer to thaw the line. Be careful not to melt any of the components.
If you do not get water out of the line at the coupling then it may be frozen in the fridge cooling coil. This is rare and usually only happens if you run your fridge on a very cold setting.

An easier fix is to redo the connection. Turn off the tap the supplies water to refrigerator, should be on your cold water line under the sink. Remove not on the solenoid valve(blue valve) slide the nut further up the vinyl tubing cut the tubing above the old connection. push the tubing into valve and tighten nut finger tight. turn the tap on a little and check for leaks at the solenoid. If no leaks open tap all the way. If leak tighten nut a little more only until leak stops. then turn tap on all the way.

The cold water inlet line is either clogged (it has a filter screen in it) or the cold-water solenoid valve is malfunctioning.

Remove cold water line, check for obstruction -- if no success, inspect electrical connections on solenoid valve (where the cold water line attaches to the back of the machine). If valve is getting current, take it apart and clean it. If that doesn't work, replace the solenoid valve.

First off does this model have a water filter if so...and if it is old and or full of filtered material the water will not dispense anywhere.

Ok...the way to test for power is obviously with meter you can easily check the solenoid leading to the inside of the frig by exposing where the connectors attach to the solenoid...but do not remove them completely you should have a continual 110/120 v supply...someone at the front of the unit can depress the dispenser and you will hear the solenoid activate...if it does not...the same should apply for the ice maker solenoid...unless it is activated by the timer (electrically) and not mechanically (which it usually is) if you are getting voltage to both of these....and you have voltage to the primary solenoid...(which you may not) if you do not have a filter...and both of the other valves stopped working at the same time..(which would be rare). Then there may be an electrical problem in general. Also you can check to see if the firdge is cold enough to make ice by manually filling the Ice maker with water...it should freeze in under 4 hours and dump the ice also...if it does...them it lies in an electrical problem in general or electrical problem to the primary solenoid. Also do you have hard water....as it may be posible for calcium deposits to accumulate at the valve inlets...and often there are tiny screens in place here also. Check for water continuity at the valves if possible.

I hope this helps....good luck and get back to me and we can go from what you find out.....please rate me.... the Fang

that's odd.

if you choose cold/cold then check your hose orientation. you could have put the hot water to the cold solenoid.
or the wires have been interchange, the hot water wire was plug to the cold solenoid and the cold water wire was plug to the hot water solenoid.
or hot water is still flowing to your cold water line.

if the cold water solenoid is the problem, then there should be no water at all going to the tub.

try to experiment, try to switch to hot/hot and see what would come out...


tnx 4 using fixya,


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