Question about Hayward 1.5 Hp Northstar High Performance Pump

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Removed lock ring between motor and pump housing. I cannot separate the two assemblies by pulling or carefully prying them apart. I even have the full assembly on my work bench. I do not see of feel any obstructions in the impeller area but the access is small. What am I doing wrong?

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If it will run turn the pump on and the water pressure will pop it apart. Other than that a lot of foul language will help but pull and trar and tug is it.

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

  • Kieran Ruppert Oct 09, 2010

    This will be very hard to pull apart. The "O" ring on the inside around the widest part of the pump is dry and will make it very hard to seperate the halves of the pump.
    Like I saw if it runs you can hook it up and start the pump, if not it will just be a lot of work, this "O" ring I speak of is about two inches back. You will find even after it's apart and you can lube the"O" ring it will still be hard to put back together. This is the reason I don't sell these or Jandy pumps. They are very impressive in performence but the last one I took apart took more than an hour and a half to get apart. Good luck.



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How do you remove the fuel pump out of a 2000 land rover freelander 1.8 xei

pry gently or tap it lightly. The lock ring you removed kind of pushes it down tight against a rubber o-ring, about 4 inches in diameter .-the sealing gasket for the pump assembly. They get a little stuck after time. Don't reef on it. Clean it real good first, so no dirt falls in when you pull the assembly out, then tap it loose. Be very careful withdrawing it if the fuel gauge sender unit is attached to the pump.

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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt

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Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer pinion from the transaxle assembly

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Fig. Fig. 11: Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle and arm

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Fig. Fig. 12: Separate the outer CV-joint splines from the knuckle hub by holding the CV-housing and pushing the knuckle out

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Fig. Fig. 13: Support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-housing to free the assembly from the transaxle

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Fig. Fig. 14: Separating the assembly from the transaxle

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Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the assembly from the transaxle

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Fig. Fig. 16: Removing the seal from the housing using a suitable prying tool

  1. Remove the cotter pin, lockwasher and spring washer from the front axle ends.
  2. Have a helper apply the service brakes and loosen the front axle hub retaining nut.
  3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel assembly. Drain transaxle fluid.

The speedometer drive pinion must be removed from the transaxle housing before the right side drive axle can be removed. Remove the retaining bolts and lift the pinion with cable connected from the housing.
  1. Remove the clamp bolt that secures the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle.
  2. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle connecting point and the control arm. Take care not to damage the rubber boot.
  3. Separate the outer CV-joint (Constant Velocity) splines from the steering knuckle hub by holding the CV housing and pushing the knuckle out and away. If resistance is encountered, use a brass drift and hammer to gently tap the outer hub end of the axle. Do not pry on the outer wear sleeve of the CV-joint.
  4. After the outboard end of the drive axle has been removed from the steering knuckle, support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-joint housing to remove the assembly from the transaxle.

WARNING Do not pull on the shaft or the assembly will disconnect. Pull only on the inner CV-joint housing.
  1. Remove the halfshaft from under the vehicle and service as necessary.

To install:
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enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Electric fuel pump-TBI engines
  1. With the engine turned OFF , relieve the fuel pressure at the pressure regulator. Refer to the fuel relief procedure in this section.
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