Question about Frigidaire 24 in. FDB635RF Built-in Dishwasher

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Lid melted on bottom heating unit -

Small Tupperware lid has completely melted in half on the bottom heating unit. How do I get this off or do I have to replace the unit?

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I just took a knife adn scraped off the heaviest and ran the dishwasher again. When it was complete I scraped some more while it was soft. Most of the plastic is gone now.

Posted on May 30, 2008

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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A plastic lid melted on the coil, still smells like "melted wax", seems clean, what can I do?


You will probably have to replace the heating coil in the bottom of the dishwasher to get rid of the smell. The coils aren't that expensive and replacing them is an easy job. Hardest part is getting the dishwasher out from under the counter to do it.

Feb 19, 2014 | Whirlpool Dishwashers

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3 problems: 1. lower drawer is hard to close; seems to be sticking on something. 2. lower drawer retains water (2 inches) after completing a cycle. 3. F1 fault code on both drawers with alert...


ok where to start, first thing the bottom draw is hard to close because they use 2 little motors on either side to pull a lid with a seal on it down on top of each draw when u start it to keep the water in, if its hard to close the motors are damaged and arnt lifting the lid back up when the cycle finishes making it hard to open and shut, now the F1 fault means the filter circuit board in the base of the machine has been activated basically a flood sensor (and controls minor components ie lid actuators), the unit should beep and flash and go spaztic and you should hear the drain pump come on continuously til u turn it off at the wall thats its way of trying to stop a leak by removing any water it can but will not actually remove the water from the base where the switch is, you will probably find it will work now as the water will have dried and stopped triggering the switch but wont stay like that for long, that machine has major issues its leaking bad from somewhere and id say it leaked onto the lid motors and fried em, the parts you will most probably have to replace is the filter board in the base, both bottom draw lid actuators (small motors), probably the bottom draw lid if you damaged the seal pulling the draw in and out and whatever is leaking and if any other componets where damaged by water, so if its outta warranty id go buy a new 1 with 5 year extended warranty

Oct 26, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DS-603 Built-in...

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The dishwasher top drawer is leaking all over the floor during the cycle. When the top drawer is running, It fills up the the bottom of bottom drawer with water also and then neither drawer drains...


Fisher and Paykel design a air gap kit to prevent the water back flowing to the other while one is running. it really works and worth of your money. You need to change the lid seal and a pair of actuators from the top drawer. Because of the leak then the floor switch activated not allowing a complete cycle. Need to dry out the wetness from the bottom housing of both top and lower drawers by pulling the tubes out and accessing from the left side with small tower until it completely dry. Here is a link to buy air gap kit http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/

Dec 15, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DD605SS Stainless Steel...

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Washer won't drain or spin


If this is a Kenmore or Whirlpool manufactured top loader, check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present2.gif. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. Post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the wash tub opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Nov 06, 2009 | Dishwashers

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Bottom drawer of dishwasher is jammed and stiff..cannot close...as well soap dispenser is stiff...what to do


The lid is pulling down by either left or right actuator causing the lid seal touching your tube. In running mode these 2 actuators pulling down the lid to seal the tube so no water leaking. When the cycle is completed, the actuators push the lid up. In this case one of them is bad not pushing the lid up. The actuators are not hard to replace. When you order, it comes with a pair, replace both. Inspect the lid, if the seal is damaged, you can order the lid to replace together.

Oct 24, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

How do I test the lid motor on the bottom unit. The lid is not closing properly and triggers F1. I dried sensor and the upper unit is working.


set for rince cycle start it and then pull gently if working properly the drawer wont move any slack change the lid motors

Jul 12, 2009 | Fisher DD603FCSS Dishwasher

2 Answers

Both drawers have F1 code - leaking water, I think it's the lid seals


The lid actuators either failed or became disloged. This does not tell the dishwasher to lift the drawer up against the lid, resulting in water cascading over the sides of the dishwasher. There is one switch per drawer.

Jul 10, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DD605SS Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

Plastic lid melted to heater at the bottom of dishwasher, literally wraped around,


Next time run the water at the sink until it is hot, then start the dishwasher; once it covers the heater open washer and see if that softened it enough to release it. If not, run dishwasher to end of cycle with drying option on and half way through drying cycle (or so) it should lift right off.

Feb 25, 2009 | LG 24 in. LDS 5811ST Stainless Steel...

1 Answer

GE PDW9700 - Heating Element turns on by itself and Burns my dishes


have experienced this problem on some zanussi machines. what is happening is that the machine continues thro cycle thinking there is water in machine when there is not. can be caused by:
slow pump rate caused by blockage especially near the drain pump inlet
faulty pressure stat

Aug 21, 2008 | GE Profile PDW8400J Built-in Dishwasher

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