Question about Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

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Brand.......... Kenmore Model.......... 110.28042701 The washer starts good but skips the wash cycle to about 3 minutes and ends with a oL code when finish. The washer will drain & spin if i use that cycle only.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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appldoctom
  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE WASHING MACHINE MODEL#110. 254872300 WONT SPIN

if your sure it will agitate?[because the pump is on the other side of the motor and will drain,but if coupler broken ,wont agitate or spin although it makes noise like its working.so if will truely agitate drive coupler fine and its going to be the clutch or that area unless somthing[clothing] is between the two tubs creating anough resistance to stop the tub from taking off.clutch pads will just slip on drive plate.hope that helps>God bless ,tom

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 110 washer will not drain at end of wash cycle

It could be the lid switch or the timer.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: No Spin No Drain

Lid switch is most likely the problem, if lid switch is visible under lid on right side then this is older design and common problem switch.
if you have console frame covers on front sides, snap off from top, a screw is at bottom front corners of console, remove and pull console forward and fold back. If lid swich is hidden then you will see it at left on top of cabinet with console folded back. a 5/16 screw holds a green ground wire to cab. remove and switch will unclip with lid up. If lid switch was visible under lid then you need to remove 2 brass clips holding cabinet on top of base to back, pry with screwdriver to unclip. undo harness connection on cabinet top, this is your lid switch connection. sw body is held by 2 phillips screws, harness tube held by clips on underside of cabinet top. ground wire with 5/16 screw present at sw body. New versions of this switch have metel shield attached.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: have a kenmore washing machine model$ 110 26912690

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+26912690

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

The other areas to look at are the Lid Switch (not difficult to replace if you have the cabinet) off or the Timer.

You can bypass the lid switch to determine if it's the problem by putting a jumper between the two outermost pins in the switch. The Whirlpool PDF shows how to do it.

If the timer moves through it's cycle, but the washer still doesn't spin, the timer is probably OK.

If the Washer pumps out the water first and doesn't spin, the problem points to the transmission and likely the Neutral drain.

When taking the cabinet and motor off, I'd also check the Motor Coupling, used as a fail safe to protect the motor and transmission.

These have a tendency to go as does the lid switch.


Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Model 925 75 110 washing machine makes

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

There is also an excellent PDF document from Whirlpool describing how Direct Drive washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

We has the same basic problem with a Kenmore direct drive washer. At the end of the spin cycle we heard a loud noise as the brake stopped the drum from spinning.

Sometimes, what can happen is that the brake will grab the brake drum, like a brake on a car suddenly locking a wheel.

The brake is supposed to slow down and stop the drum without locking.

We were able to spray a small amount of silicone spray inside the brake drum, which allowed the shoes to more gently grab the drum.

See GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Remove the cabinet and look at the drum directly above the silver colored clutch assembly.

Using an spray can of silicone spray, and a directional tube, spray a very small amount into the brake drum.


Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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