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Throwing breaker after plugging in.

I've checked for burn't wiring and found none.I then ran my ohm meter from the positive power wire to just about everywhere else in the unit and show continuity.Any ideas?

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Sounds like the compressor is causing an overload. I honestly would have a Tech come look at it before I tried to deal with it any further.

Posted on May 30, 2008

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I have a whirlpool front loader dryer duet, and I am not getting any heat! My husband and I took it all apart and cleaned everything and checked all the fuses and elemts everything was working just fine,...


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating elements faulty, replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the cover .The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Oct 02, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Cu ft maytag performa


make this tests and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover . The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Oct 02, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but no heat


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | Dryers

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How do I replace the thermomistor on GEW9250PWO


see this causes and fix it, use the common sense. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Sep 27, 2012 | Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer isnt drying


USE THE COMMON SENSE, FIX IT. God bless you
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 03, 2012 | Whirlpool Duet WFW9550 Front Load Washer...

1 Answer

Duet dryer isnt drying well


see the causes and remedies:
Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 03, 2012 | Whirlpool GHW9300 Duet Washer

1 Answer

As soon as i plug it in the attached plug breaker blows, have ran it once this year without a problem now i can't even turn it on, had it plugged into a power box also tried the wall outlet.


Check the following :
Wiring (Inspect for any broken or burnt wiring)

Thermostat - burnt or shorted

Compressor - use an ohm meter. One lead on a good ground, touch each terminal with other lead. Any movement on meter compressor is grounded

Overload - Visual inspection


Selector switch - Burnt

Shorted - Control board

Jun 19, 2011 | Comfort-Aire RAD-81 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Keeps shutting off automatically and flashes Protect before it shuts down ??


FIRST DISS-CONNECT POWER FROM RECEIVER.... DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY SERVICE / TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES TO ELECTRICAL DEVICES PRIOR TO REMOVING ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now that the power cord is unplugged we can start. We shall start this repair by doing the easiest tests/checks first. That DOES NOT MEAN that just because the test is easy, its not very important.... every recommendation to follow is JUST as important as the next! (even if what is asked to be checked sounds un-important... its not! Follow this advice and YOU WILL RESOLVE YOUR ISSUE! TRUST ME... YOU WILL FIX THIS issue & before the days over.... SMILE & BE HAPPY! OK...... lets get started) First lets Check the power cord... unpluged? Sure hope so! Now the first thing that you have to do is check ALL the speaker connections at both ends!!!!!!!! (@ speaker & Receiver) Be certain ALL connections are tight & that NO strands of wire are shorting out the connections by touching each other...... the ends of ALL speaker wires must be seperate from each other at all times!!!! Each wire must ONLY be connected to one post/connector!!!!! Only ONE speaker should be connected to each terminal.... do not connect additional speakers to connections at any time!!!!!!!!!!! ONLY ONE can be applied to EACH OUTPUT TERMINAL!!!!!! If the speakers your using are fuse protected check fuses or circuit breakers accordingly. One open circuit (unconnected output terminal) or shorted (wires touching together) will immediatelly trigger receiver to SHUT DOWN!!!!!!! Receiver MUST have a load (speaker) connected to each speaker output to operate properly. Should all wires be found connected properly after checking at both speaker terminals & receiver terminals & problem is still accuring after reapplying power....... additional resistance checks must be made using an OHM Meter (available at most harware stores). If one of the speakers being used has burned out / gone bad / broke...... the only way to determine this condition is via a resistance measurment. Disconnect the speaker wire from the back of each speaker prior to doing resistance check!!! (a false reading will be observed if the speaker wire is still connected during this test) Now touch each of the two speaker terminals with one of the meter leads (the meter must be set to OHMS or RESISTANCE during this test for proper reading). The resistance reading observed should be NO LESS THAN 3 OHMS & NO MORE THAN 10 OHMS !!!!!!!!! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read LESS than 3 OHMS = speaker shorted... MUST be replaced! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read MORE than 10 OHMS = speaker open.... Must be replaced! Connecting damaged speakers to any receiver for a prolonged period of time WILL DAMAGE RECEIVER!!!!!!! Speaker resistance MUST be between 3 & 10 ohms to avoid damage to output transistors in receiver.... when receiver senses less than a resistance of 3 or more of a resistance than 10 @ ANY speaker terminal during operation................. IMMEDIATE AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN OF RECEIVER WILL OCCURE!!!!!!! You've got a bad speaker or a loose speaker wire or a shorted speaker wire...... check each of your speaker connections/terminals & you'll find your problem! When you do find a loose or shorted wire associated with the speakers......... you'll have found your problem! Trust me.... you CAN do it!!!! and when you do... you will SMILE !!!!!!!! & be HAPPY!!!!!!!
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!

May 14, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

I have a ge profile that is 13 years old. the burners work but the oven will not heat, I checked the breaker and turned it off and back on to reset oven but it still does nothing. any thing i might try,...


Greetings,

If you look carefully at the bake element..There may be a burnt spot or not smooth to the touch..If it has any bumps or blemishes...Its bad. If you have an ohm meter you can check the bake element for continuity...if none, its defective......in most cases its the element that goes bad...

If you do have a volt/ohm meter you can check for voltage and I've even seen the wire burn off where it connects to the burner itself...The thing to really be sure of is power going to bake..if not power, its either the board relay keeping it off or a wiring problem...ie burnt wires
Bruce Denton

Dec 12, 2010 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

WON'T COME ON AT ALL.


you have not said anuthing about ohming out the start knob,and have you checked both legs on the power cord are getting 120 volts each?let me know what you find-mike

Sep 09, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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