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Throwing breaker after plugging in.

I've checked for burn't wiring and found none.I then ran my ohm meter from the positive power wire to just about everywhere else in the unit and show continuity.Any ideas?

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Sounds like the compressor is causing an overload. I honestly would have a Tech come look at it before I tried to deal with it any further.

Posted on May 30, 2008

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How do you check resistance through the heater coil?


To that defrost heater
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Have a amana side by side and am trying to find out the ohms rating on the breaker and thermal starter?and how to test them with a ohm meter, the breaker fits on the starter.


Hello,
On the overload (breaker) it will be ZERO ohms if good
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. I have a Kennmore Coldspot Fridge that runs for


A 15A circuit is mainly reserved for lighting.

Even some vacuum cleaners would trip a 15A circuit breaker.

The problem isn't with your refrigerator...its with the breaker installed in the breaker box.

Check your wire size and follow these rules :
12 gauge wire can have 30A c/b max
14 gauge wire can have 20A c/b max
16 gauge wire can have 15A c/b max

So, if the wires coming out of the wall socket is 12 gauge or even 14 gauge...you should be able to swap that 15A circuit breaker with a 20A circuit breaker.
This should be plenty for your refrigerator...if it "pops a 20A"...then you've got appliance problems.

If you don't feel comfortable doing that...then get a new 15A breaker...because it sounds like the other one has gotten weak.

Hope this helps

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if you have ohm meter than check that 2 brown wire with it. adjust meter at x100ohm or less,hold fridge wire on ohm wire and turn off and on fridge,if have some reading(off=1,on=0) at the ohm meter,than it is L,N wire.

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Check the 110 volt wire for flaws. Take a volt meter and check the recep that the fridge plugs into for power, should be 110 volts or so. +/- 10%. If you have power at the recep problem is in the fridge chord or circuit board fuse or circuit board. Also check the 110 volt breaker in the coach at the service panel.

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i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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