First, provide the amp model number. Second, ensure that you are not using a Front or Rear line-out of the radio and have the radio in High Pass Only mode. Third, ensure that the switch located on the amp is is LP (low pass) mode and that you turn down the frequency control on the amp to somewhere around 80 or below. If none of those things are doing the job then you need to ensure that you have grounded the amp securely with it's own ground (not with a factory bolt or screw) on the floor of the vehicle. Scrape away any paint and use a self tapping bolt without over-tightening it. Also ensure that your power lead at the battery is tight as can be and that the connection is clean. Hope this at least helps determine if the amp is at fault or not. Good Luck! Dan
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Is the amp switching on? There are two 12v wires that have to be connected. One from a direct constant 12v supply source, and the other one from the ignition switch 12v source.Find a single 12v. supply which you can take from the lighter connection and then trace a 12v wire that runs from your ignition switch. This is mentioned in the amp manual.Double check. If the amp is coming on but no sound, then your wire connections from the amp are not correct.Or you have also connected the speaker wires incorrectly.Remmember not to connect the earth of the speaker wires to the direct earth(body of the car) but to the earth wires that are shown in the manual as this could blow the amp power IC. The earth wires of the speakers are marked -- and + respectfully and are also colour coded.You should have a RCA female plug connector from your amp to the subs. Check everything double and if still no luck their is a possibility that you could have blown an IC in the amp from wrongly connected wires. Hope this is not the case.
I bought one last night i think its a fake.... doesn't even have instructions. If u figure this out let me know. But i just look up the site called the white van scam... i bought it from some guys in a white truck. And it sounds just like wat they sold me with the same canvas
Sounds like blown subs, in the process of completely dying out, or a loose wire, possibly inside the box or from the box to the amp. Have your subs tested at a sound shop, or using a multi-meter, check for resistance across the sub terminals. An open line indicates a blown sub.
check the resistance of the sub with a digital multi meter, make sure you dissconect the sub from everything before you check the resistance, if your sub is supposed to be 4 ohms than it should be between 3-5 ohms, if it is under 1 that the sub is blown, while the sub is dissconected from the amp, turn the system on, does it still go into protection?
No such thing as a typical sub system. Be more specific? If the subs are moving well and just not basing you will need to check 2 things first. Try the polatity of the speakers (reverse one) they may be out of phase and will cause the bass to cancel eachother. Another cause is the box may the incorrect size for the speakers and will not give you the correct sound the speakers are capable of. If neither of those work check your amp settings and make sure its set on sub/low frequency.
What kind of car? What kind of system? More details will help me assist you better.
If it is an aftermarket in-dash stereo, it sounds like the blue/white wire is not hooked up correctly. This powers up the car's amplifier and lets the sound through.