Re: The problem is: On the tension arm/wheel for the
Did you try it with the belt off? Unplug the machine. You could try some Penetrating oil to loosen it, (hardware or auto parts store) but it sounds like it has jammed or the bearing has seized. WD 40 is not as good. If you are able to free it, I'd then lube it with a high temperature bearing grease. (Auto wheel bearing grease) Auto parts stores have little squeeze tubes sitting on their counters. $3. Call Maytag tech support and ask them if they have special grease and clear the use of bearing grease. It should all be the same. Don't over lube and make a mess.. If lubrication doesn't free it up, replace it.
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remove the drum and you should be able to replace the pulley , alot of times they go bad ( you will see all the warn out rubber ,.. if its seem to be good try oiling it a bit ,,, but replacing is the best options ( lots of screws to take out so you can have acces so get that screwdriver and beer ready ;) lol
could be a couple of things ,, first check the drum belt, and the tensioner (idler arm) if they seem ok,, then you need to remove the drum and check both the support wheels and the plastic strips on the front of the drum,, with any luck its one of these things, if not, your motor is just weak, and will no longer support the load on it and will need to be replaced
Tensioning a blade on a band saw usually means moving the upper driven wheel upwards. Remove/open the upper wheel cover and look for the lock bolts and the bolt that will jack the wheel upwards to tighten the blade. Loosen off the lock bolts, tension the blade - it needs to be pretty tight with virtually no sideways movement - and tighten the lock bolts. Replace the covers and lock the covers. Make sure that the wall plug is removed from the socket before you proceed with this operation - band saws know no mercy.
On the bottom left side next to the motor you will see a small plastic wheel (idler pulley) which the belt is wrapped around. The wheel is attached to a L-shaped piece of metal which is known as an idler spring arm which is made out of spring steel.
Move the arm one way or the other and you will notice the belt tension getting looser. Push the arm further that way until you can get the belt off the pulley an motor. Use caution as the spring arm has torque on it and could snap back.
Once the belt is off the motor and idler pulley you can then pull the drum out. You will need to lift the drum up slightly since the back sits on drum wheels(the groove on the back of the drum). Take the drum and belt out together.
Once you have made the repairs, install the drum in reverse order.
Note: Before removing the belt, make a diagram of how the belt goes around the motor and pulley for future reference.
Since you are able to turn the drum with the belt, I am assuming that you have removed the cabinet of the dryer.
Look for worn bearings and support wheels for the drum. Also have a look at the idler / tension wheel as well.
The drum should not be moving around as it is sitting on the rollers. The belt should maintain enough tension to keep it from doing so. If it is able to be moved, there may not be adequate tension from the idler wheel.
This is usually caused from a worn belt or a faulty belt tensioner. From the back of the dryer you should be able to see the belt tensioner and see if the wheel on the tensioner is turning. If it's not then you need a new tensioner, if it is then its likely to be a belt. The other causes for this problem may be a drum wheel or drum bearing which has failed. The drum wheel hold the drum up and are located generally on the bottom of the drum. These wheels have a brass center for a bearing and if they are bad will generally cause a grinding or squealing noise.
Before we get to putting it the Belt back on... Look at the alignment of the Pulleys. Most times the Tensioner or Idle Pulley are "canted" - meaning pitched or leaning forward, which causes the belt to "run off" the pulley - throwing the belt. With the Belt off: check side-to side play for each one of the Pulleys by hand, especially for the Tensioner and Idle Pulleys. There should not be any side-to side play. If there is any other Pulleys that are canted - check if they are properly tightened. A new belt should not have come off on it's own without some other problem.
GENERAL/Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner: A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Regarding the Strip Lug -Studs. Is this on the wheels with Rotors (Disc) or Drums? If the tire was not properly mounted, or the Lug Nuts were not properly Torqued; this will cause the Lug Studs (bolts) to be stripped. With the vehicle raised and properly supported by jack stands: For Rotors: Remove the Tire, Brakes (Calipers/Pads) and Rotor, exposing the Wheel Hub (Bearing) Assembly with the Studs fully exposed. Rotate the Wheel Hub to a location where the Lug Studs can be clearly removed FROM THE REAR OF THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lug Studs back thru the Wheel Hub Assembly. Remove the loosened Lug Studs.
For Drums: Raise, support, remove the Tires. Remove the Drums off the Wheel Assembly. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lugs back into the drum, removing from inside the Drum
Purchase the new, correct size and length Lug Studs and new Lug Nuts. If the Studs were stripped, most like the Nuts are too. To reinstall the Lug Studs: Purchase an additional two (2) Lug Nut that fits that Lug Stud. Also purchase several Large Heavy Duty Washers that can fit on the the Lug Studs.
Place the Lug Stud back into the Wheel Assembly from the Rear (Rotors) or from inside (Drums). Use High Temp Grease for the area of the Lug Stud Splines that have to be "drawn" into the Wheel Assembly (with Rotors) or into the Drum. After the Lug Studs are "IN" as far as they will go: on the outside place at least two (2) of the Washers on Lug Studs. Use a Lug Nut and tighten as far as possible down-on the Lug Stud as possible. Next: Using an Impact Wrench tighten that Lug Nut down/on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Assembly/Drum. Check the rear of/inside the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. The Heads of the Lug Studs should be firmly against the Wheel Assembly/Drum. If you do not have a Impact Wrench - use at least a 24-in Breaker Bar and Tighten the Lug Nut on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. This takes longer and alot more work, compared to 10-seconds using the Impact Wrench. Repeat as necessary.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
If the rubber "tires" on the wheels are worn out or dried out and hard, you may have to replace them. But you may be able to salvage them by dressing them. There should be a little bit of a crown to the rubber (seems counter-intuitive, but it's true). If the tires have enough rubber left you can restore the crown by hand sanding.
remember to unplug the unit before doing anything to it please . And here is what I described you before is an easy thing to do you can probably purchase a dryer kit comes with new drum wheels, belt, an tensioner probaly for under 50 dollars depending on where you livem change em all an don't have to worry about it , a bad wheel could had been the cause to stress out the belt, check the wheels that hold the drum make sure they are not catching, sorry it took me a lil longer to get you the photo!