An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Water outlet Fault
You have accepted fellow expert dahaka's solution as acceptable. If not acceptable, our apologies. I have continued to research your problem.
I am unable to locate a free service manual download, however, I do know of some other possiblilites to check.
Is it possible that your outlet hose is blocked maybe slightly?
Read below for possiblities. Also please be sure that your pin trap is not blocked.
Good luck, and I will keep looking. Please change the rating if you are not satisfied!
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The first thing to do is take note of what the washer is doing when water leaks out in order to help pinpoint the cause. Does it only leak when filling? Is it leaking during wash or rinses? Or is it leaking only when it goes into spin?
Only leaks when filling
Water pressure that's too strong. Some dispensers can't cope with high water pressure. Make sure the washer is level as one leaning forward can leak if combined with high water pressure. Try turning the tap on the washer down. Only suspect this if you know the water pressure is high and it looks like it's gushing in quite fast on fill
If there is an optional detergent flap fitted in the drawer for holding liquid detergent make sure it is removed or drawn into the up position if using powder otherwise it prevents detergent running down into the drum
A build up of grease and slime in the nozzles at the top of the dispenser where the water flows in causing water to spray at the front and run out when filling. Check this article -black jelly-like substance in soap dispenser and on soap drawer (In extreme cases I've had to replace the dispenser.)
A build up of undissolved detergent in the base of the soap dispenser under the drawer (depending on the design). Remove the soap drawer and check the bottom of the soap dispenser for a build up of detergent that could allow water to run over the lip of the dispenser
Blocked dispenser hose: Some washing machines can flood water out of the soap dispenser if the hose leading out of the dispenser into the tub gets blocked. Blockages can be something put into the drawer by a child or a chunk of undissolved detergent tablet. Indesit, and Candy, as well as some of the later Hoover washing machines suffered from this design flaw. The hose where the water is flushed down, was right at the front of the soap dispenser on these washing machines and it wasn't wide enough. Undissolved powder from a tablet or lumps of detergent through poor water pressure can block this hose solid causing water to back up. Unplug machine, remove lid and feel this hose carefully for obstructions.
Overfilling: If the washer starts to fill and never stops it will flood out of the drawer eventually - Washing machine overfills
Leaks out of drawer during the wash or rinse cycle
Overfilling: If the washer starts washing but the water doesn't stop coming in it will eventually fill the drum so much it will start to pour out of the soap drawer and other places. If this is the fault you should be able to see the drum is so full of water it's making a different sound, maybe labouring under the load, and the door glass full to the top with water. You should also hear that water is still running into the machine and be able to detect it by opening the drawer. However, in most cases an over filling washing machine should trigger an error code long before it gets to this stage but if you suspect overfilling check this page - Washing machine overfills
Surging: There are (often intermittent) faults that can cause the motor to spin out of control on wash or rinses. Instead of turning slowly the fault causes the motor to surge into spin instead which throws the laundry and all the water about violently. Water can then be forced out of the soap dispenser drawer. This fault should be relatively rare these days but if you observe this behaviour call an engineer to diagnose the cause.
Leaks from drawer only when spinning
If it only comes out on spin it can be caused by a partial blockage preventing the water being pumped out fast enough resulting in excess water being thrown around on spin and backing up into the dispenser. This fault is similar to the surging fault described in the last list but different in that the problem only occurs when it's on a proper spin cycle and much of the water has been pumped away. Troubleshooting this fault is all about finding out why it isn't emptying the water properly which is usually due to a partial blockage. Follow the same troubleshooting as described for a washer not pumping any water out at all - Washing machine won't empty water
If water is being forced out of the drawer when the washer is spinning but it is on wash or rinse and shouldn't be spinning follow the procedure for surging in the previous section above
Our unit had leaking connection on outlet side of fill solenoid valve.
Any leak will cause water to accumulate in base pan. there is a float switch in base pan as a safety mechanism when water is in pan it causes a styrofoam float to rise and make contact with switch. This tells machine there is a leak creates error code to run pump continuously until water is removed from base.
Disconnet electric from unit first.
you must pull dishwasher out to get at back panel. Remove lower back panel to get access to mechanicals of unit. Once you remove panel you should see water in pan.
If you see water that is most likely same issue we had. soak up excess water or tilt unit to drain water out of pan. once water is gone unit should start normally.
If you look underneath while unit starts up - don't touch anything while unit is connected to electricity! You should notice where water is coming from.
Our unit leaked at hose connection from outlet side of solenoid fill valve. connector is a plastic cam-lock fitting with a flow sensor integrated into it. there is an o-ring between the two parts. it comes apart with a very small amount of counter-clockwise motion. perhaps only five or ten degrees of indexing and it falls right off. it is a very flimsy connection for the main water line. the o-ring on our unit
Was slightly deformed and not seated correctly. could have been from original installers 4 years earlier! Asko needs to re-design this part. I replaced o-ring and unit is working again however I do not trust that this fitting will hold up over time. Very poor design in my opinion. Other design flaw I noticed while looking at mechanicals is circulating pump isolation mount is not in correct location for pump motor. rubber mount is stressed to the point of almost tearing off! No way for me to correct this since location of mount does not match position of motor.
We will not replace this unit with another ASKO when it goes.
see the causes and remedies: Most dispenser problems are due to being gummed up with detergent,
fabric softner, bleach residue, and water deposits. First check the
dispenser drawer by pulling it out of the dispenser itself. To do this
push down on the tab in the back and remove. Check that all is
thoroughly clean. No holes blocked up. Now there are several types of
dispensers out there but most have holes in the top where it dispenses
hot or cold water to the appropriate area. These holes can become
plugged up. If you have really hard water I would say replace the
dispenser if it is gummed up bad. Otherwwise remove the dispenser
and thoroughly clean it out. Before doing this check the solenoids that
allow water through the dispenser. The solenoids can be checked with an
ohmeter but if all is clean and the solenoid does not open to allow
flow replace the unit or solenoid. Connect your ohmeter and refer to the
tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. You can also check
for voltage going to the solenoid. If you have voltage when each
solenoid should be working, example: When the machine should be
dispensing fabric softner, The solenoid that allows water to flow
through that area should have voltage. If it does replace the solenoid or unit. see the diagram attached God bless you
Your problem is most likely the fill solenoids. Often, grit, sand and other 'stuff' in your water supply will cause the solenoids to stick open. To repair, pull the washer away from the wall, so you can access the area where your water hoses attach to the washing machine. Turn the water off. Disconnect the water hoses, allowing them to drain into a bucker. Identify the screws that go from the back of the washer into the item that the hoses attach to. Remove those screws and disconnect the hose(s) that go into the body of the washer. Remove the solenoid unit. Purchase a new solenoid. Reverse the removal procedure.
Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
to remove the dispenser is not a 30 second job. You have to remove the door front with a T20 (torx) screwdriver (don't forget the 2 screws in the middle of the door at the bottom) Then you can get to the screws that hold the dispenser in place. Make sure you remove the solenoid from the dispenser BEFORE soaking in water. A more likely issue is either the solenoid on the dispenser has failed and will show signs of burning and/or damage or one of the transistors on the control board may have blown.
check the filter basket that catches waste from the washup. Also follow the outlet hose ( usually winds through cupboards to the sink outlet. ) and see there are no kinks in it from articles being pushed against it. If these are OK it may be that ther outet valve is jammed and this will require a tech, as the whole casing will need removing
I've finally tracked down the manual and it the fault code is as follows "Indicates a fault in the heater or in the thermistor" You can go into a fault tracing mode by pushing the "Rinse Hold" button five times within 15 seconds. The first, third, fifth and seventh lights will flash when in this mode and you can test the following parts by pressing the corresponding button. I'm going to try the heater test below and assume that if that works the fault must be with the Thermistor. The other tests could be useful for other faults. User manual found here Rinse Hold - tests detergent solenoid, detergent flaps open after about 60sec Pots & Pans - tests Rinse Aid Solenoid, rinse aid will flow down door Normal Wash - tests water inlet valve, water can be heard entering Light Wash - tests ventilator solenoid, there will be a click followed by a rattling noise Quick Wash - tests the heater, the element heats up, WARNING don’t touch element HOT Temp - tests circulation pump, the pump starts Dry - test outlet pump, the pump starts Manual says to push 55 and 65 degree button to exit, I have no idea where those are so will probably just switch off at wall to reset. Hope this helps someone. I rang ASKO and they said they didn’t know what the fault code meant so either they can’t read or their service sucks, probably a bit of both!
Problem fixed by removing the "restrictor" rubber washer on the cold water supply solenoid, this allows more water to flow.
Three wash runs so far with no problems.
The notched lever is for water direction control into the soap dispenser!
This suggestion is not too good. If your dispenser opens at the initial stages of the cycle, just a little - pour some water into the dispenser to wash down the detergent. (For my machine i can pull out the dispenser anytime during the wash, except when water comes into the dispenser, but even then i think the water enters the tub.)
For this you dont have to hang around the machine for long for it is in the initial stages of the cycle.
Later you hv to check the flow of water into the dispenser. Hv no idea how to do it; but i gave you a quick solution.