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Regardless of how many times I upload this video it loops back to its beginning at around the 9:10 point here's the link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP4-bncWj6w Part 2

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I was able to watch all 14:31 of it. However, I did notice that the initial 4.5 minutes or so lead in was a repeat twice. The real interviews start at 9:15.

I am using IE 8.0.

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Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do I cast on in knitting


Hi I am not a great knitter but I do know how to cast on stitches.
OK here goes, Get your two knitting needles and wrap the wool around both loosely and tie a knot, holding one needle in your Lt. hand and one in your Rt. hand (Rt. needle point is under the Lt. needle point and loop of wool is around both needles)
**take the loose end of wool in right hand and put it around the point of the Rt. needle towards you while holding every thing firmly, with your Lt. middle finger push the point of the Rt. needle back towards you and at the same time twist the Rt. needle up with your Rt. hand, catching the wool you just looped around the point of the Rt. needle, return Rt. needle back behind Lt. (you now have 1 loop on both the Rt. & Lt. needle) Still holding both needles bring the Lt. needle to the front of the loop on the Rt. needle and slip the loop over onto the Lt. needle
YOU HAVE JUST CAST ON 1 STITCH.
Insert the Rt. needle into the stitch you just made and positioned under the Lt. needle***.
Repeat from ** to *** until you have enough stitches.

NOTE to make a firmer row after the first stitch put the Rt. needle behind the complete loop not just the front of the loop.

**taking loose end of the the wool in your Rt. hand , loop it around the point of the Rt. needle towards you while holding every thing firmly, with your Lt. middle finger push the point of the Rt. needle back towards you and at the same time twist the Rt. needle up with your Rt. hand, catching the wool you just looped around the point of the Rt. needle, return Rt. needle back behind Lt. (you now have 1 loop on both the Rt. & Lt. needle) Still holding both needles bring the Lt. needle to the front of the loop on the Rt. needle and slip the loop over onto the Lt. needle ***
Same as previous instructions and keep repeating until you have enough stitches.

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American camper tent 2455 setup


Finally figured it out through trial and error. This right here is the only correct explanation given anywhere on the net.

First, make sure you have all of your poles. There will be 4 straight green ones, 4 straight blue, 4 straight burgundy with plastic feet, 4 curved yellow, 2 small orange arches, a straight pink and a straight white.

Before you start putting the poles together, stake the tent down at every loop point around the base of the tent. There should be 10 of them. Make sure they're fairly tight and the floor of the tent is taught and flat but not so tight that you tear the tent at the seam. Stake 1 corner first. Then put the second stake through the second loop in order and using a firm pressure, pull away from the first stake, along the line of the tent base, make taught and push the second stake into the ground. Repeat until finished.

The first pole assembly uses in this order, going out from the yellow arch, which is in the center. From one side of that arch, add one green, then a curved yellow, then another green and a burgundy at the bottom. Do the same from the other side of the center arch piece.

This arch outlines the door and goes through the 3 loops on the front of the tent, around the door, so the poles hold the tent up. the loops at the bottom are not for the poles. Every loop around the bottom are where the stakes go to hold it down. For now point the feet towards the back of the tent wherever they will stand on their own. You can fine tune it and firm it up once you get the second arch in place.

All green ones should now be used up.

For the second arch, do the same thing but use the blue instead of the green. So from the one side of the yellow arch, 1 blue, 1 curved yellow, one blue and one burgundy. Same order from the other side of the arch.

Now all the poles should be used up except for the straight pink one and the straight white one. These two go together to make a straight pole that goes through the metal loops attached to the yellow arch pieces and locks the two arch assemblies apart at the top.

Now this takes some maneuvering and some word smithery to describe but what you want to do is make sure the feet of the front arch assembly, are pointed towards the back of the tent and stop at the side. The back arch feet will point towards the front of the tent. They both stop about 6 inches BEFORE the center tie down loop on the SIDES of the tent, on either side of the center loop. The front arch will actually lean forward, with the feet pointed behind it and wedged into the ground, right up against the tent at the bottom, move it around until you have a nice firm feel to it. Same with the back arch but this one will lean away from the back of the tent and the feet pointed towards the front. Once you get the back arch into place, it will really firm up and won't budge.

Another way to describe it would be that the two arch assemblies feet will point towards each other at the side of the tent, about 6 inches before they reach the center loop on either side.

Hope this helped. =)

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When the sewing machine is properly timed, all the parts work together in a seamless flow of coordination. The needle moves from it highest point down toward the needle plate. The feed dogs reach the farthest point toward the back of the sewing machine. The feed dogs drop under the needle plate. This is just before the needle point reaches the needle plate. The needle continues to move down dragging the upper thread under the needle plate. It proceeds toward its lowest point.
The needle begins its rise back up. A loop of thread forms along the back of the needle. A special cut out on the back of the needle to accommodate this loop is called the scarf. The sewing machine hook slides behind the needle. The point of the hook slides into the thread loop and pulls the thread around the bobbin. The bobbin thread and upper thread wrap together. The needle and hook proceed through their actions under the needle plate. The feed dogs move under the needle plate from back to front.

The needle proceeds to rise again up out of the bobbin area exiting the needle plate. At the same time the feed dogs rise up out from under the needle plate. They begin to move from front to back as the needle continues to rise.
The thread from the bobbin flows through a bobbin tensioner providing resistance to the thread as it is drawn up by the upper thread knot. The upper thread is also under tension. This comes from the upper tension, thread guides, tension spring, and sewing machine take up lever.
The thread from top and bobbin grow increasingly tighter until they form a locked stitch in the middle of the fabric. This process is repeated for every stitch.
How do you adjust sewing machine timing?

The needle, hook, and feed dogs must move in harmony. If they fail to do so, the machine will not perform as expected. When the hook is just slightly out of time with the needle, you will notice skipped stitches. This may begin on only one side of the zig zag stitch or intermittently. If the timing is just a bit more out of sync, stitch formation will become impossible.
If the feed dog timing is out of sync, the fabric will not move through the machine as expected. Threads may bunch up or the fabric may just not move.
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click on this link directly
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This will help. Thanks please keepupdated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya


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1. Install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening. Ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door.

2. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom.

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