Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check to see if you have the system switch accidently on em. heat. The way you have it wired is correct except for the having brown on e. disconnect brown wire and cut ofbare end just in case they have the wire hooked up for constant run on roof.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
hi! there, continous fan motor when unit was shutt off,since supply source was already cut off specially on fan condenser motor,the supply of your motor was came from relay mounted on your circuit board control panel,there a holding coil to hold the connection between your fan and ac source,shut off breaker for ac unit first before diagnosing ac unit, try to check this out the relay is still activated giving ac source when shut off,the contactor on relay holding your ac supply was shorted,try to check the connection the circuit activating condenser fan relay,eliminate the short circuit,using multi tester test rod,use manual diagram for circuit control board to lessen complicated diagnosing,focus on fan relay ac source then isolate checking the short circuit replace defective relay,contact point of relay are not repairable.take necessary precaution on checking to avoid shock,this a hard task i would suggest that certified ac technician w/ full knowledge of instrumentation should do this.thank's for selecting fixya and have a nice day.
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
Hi, Trane weathertron are top of the line units, and I have had extensive schooling on all tranes, commercial Intellipaks and Voyagers. If the fan has stopped, the bearings in this fan are failing and that's what you hear humming this motor or most likely the contactor. If it is easy for you to remove the fan guard ( power off ) you can turn the prop/blade and see how tight the bearings are. Carfefully, place your hand on the body to see if it is hot. If the hum is not from the motor, it will be from the contactor pulled in when in cooling mode, causing a load on it due to the condenser fan motor failing. Look on the front and rear of the motor for small caps that would be for oil. Most motors have sealed bearings now, but they still use ones that need a few drops of 20 weight oil during service of the unit. If you do, you might try going to a hardware store to get a plastic oiler bottle with the telescopic spout to reach these bearings and try to oil them for a $1.20. This may get you back on line again, only if you do have this type of bearing. Another part to check would be the dual run capacitor in the control section on the outdoor unit. Normally round and silver/gray in color, some are plastic and they look like a small can of V-8 juice with several wires coming out the top. Others are shaped like a flask without the top, lol. It will have 3- sets of connectors on it. Marked Herm., fan, and C for common. Look it over well, at the top, sides, and bottom. If you see any sings of a swollen and distorted top or body, the top swollen up, like its ready to burst, or it has and you see oil all over it, this is why the motor has failed or will not run. Replace this first as the cost is around $15.00 or so. If you have a Granger's supply, they will have them. If not, a appliance parts house. This capacitor gives your condenser fan motor and compressor a boost upon starting and keeps them running a speed at all times. If they fail, the motor could or will fail in time and so will the compressor. If it looks good, no oil leaks, you will need to have your condenser fan motor replaced. This motor works the hardest of all, in the heat plus the heat the motor gives off so its not unusual to loose this motor. At the start of summer, my crew no to stock there vans with all types of condenser motors and run caps, 1/8, 1/4, 1/3, 1,2, 3/4, and 1h.p. on commercial units. On your contactor, you will see it, it has either 1 or 2 sets of contacts on it and this is where your high voltage leads come in and connect. They will be black and some burned places. I would with power off if you have a small piece of fine sanding cloth or paper is to try and clean them up some. This is not a must. So, if all looks good, and the motor is hot, it has failed. A a/c company should charge you around $150.00 to replace this motor and they come with there own single run cap just for the motor. They will need to make a few changes on the wiring of the new motor and cap. Its around a hour to change out, plus maybe a truck or trip charge. Ask them about all charges. I am sorry for such a long solution, I just wanted to tell you a little about your unit and give you some experience. Please keep me posted and rate me if you will. I will be here if you need me for anymore help. Thank you for using Fixya.com
A/C & Heating Contractor
Posted on Jul 01, 2010
SOURCE: trane weathertron thermosatat
OK. Here is a Trane Weathertron BAYSTAT240 thermostat wiring picture. This heat pump w/ electric (emergency) heaters is running right now. Notice the G terminal has green wire, the R terminal has red wire, the white wire is jumpered from W to X2, etc. The black wire loop you see in the center hole is unconnected.
This unit is adjusted by leveling the base - loosen the screw to the left of "R" and the one to the right of "F". Twist the base clockwise to RAISE the indicator. This makes the mercury in the switch turn ON at a different temperature. Remember to tighten those 2 screws again.
You will have to experiment several times to make the unit read exactly right. If the tech installed the base exactly level, the unit would read right (it says here).
Posted on Jun 10, 2011
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